Thursday, 18 February 2010

Best of New York Fashion Week 1

New York is not the Fashion Week I most look forward to... It's so far away (all the other ones can be comfortably reached by train from Paris) and its style is generally so practical and urban. It lacks the exhuberance of Milan, the creativity of London and the magnificence of Paris. Luckily there is an increasing group of designers who truly make the week worthwhile.

One of the most expected collections is always Proenza Schouler. I've been a long-time follower of their exquisite textures, patterns and straight-lined concept of femininity. Their summer collection was mastermind and the last one keeps the standards up. Although I personally was not a fan of their high-waisted graffiti-printed jeans, I can predict they will be one of the best-sellers of the season. What I really liked were the skirts: they are perfect to achieve an edgy sense of glamour. Also, I loved the dark burgundy lipstick.

This is an important collection for Rag & Bone: it's the first womenswear collection the duo have designed by themselves, and the result is girly but not obvious, easy to wear but not boring, classical but young indeed. The show was a succession of girls perfectly dressed to go to school on a cold winter's day, fully equipped with scarves, warm layerings and bags that were the perfect size for an iPhone. They looked so comfy and pretty it made me extremely jealous!

I'm certain I was not the only one counting the days left until Rodarte's show. Kate and Laura Mulleavy's creativity and craftmanship are simply amazing. Surprisingly, the collection was much lighter and happier than the one in September, and the patchwork was not so visible, but the whole show had a dreamlike qualityemphasized by the last few white dresses, made of crochet, lace and broderie anglaise. All in all, the collection is perfect for a young and romantic yet daring lady...

...And the Nicholas Kirkwood shoes! You all know I simply adore Kirkwood's work (art déco-inspired, ultra-contemporary, vertiginous-but-comfortable-and-cloudlike light heels existed only in my wildest dreams before Kirkwood stepped in). These luminous, wax-like heels were the talk of the whole fashion crowd for days after the show.

The first time I went to London, years ago, I bought a Preen dress. I still have it, and it still feels heavenly every time I wear it. So now that the brand has teamed up with Savile Row experts to develop their tailoring, it has simply become sublime. The collection featured structured-but-feminine dresses, lovely and very English floral prints and beautifully tailored trousers and oversized jackets.

Looking at Oscar de la Renta I realized how much the world has changed in the last few decades. Our 2010 concept of glamour and elegance has very little to do with what used to be glamourous (you know, Elizabeth Taylor walking around the airport in fur and jewels, Estee Lauder in her Park Avenue home or Paloma Picasso strolling towards the Ibiza beach wearing an embroidered silk chiffon kaftan). De la Renta, though, still lives in that world, and I find that truly fascinating. He has a reason for it, as well: the ladies he dresses still live in that world. His collection was luxurious, chic, ladylike...flawless.

What can I say about Mulberry? It was nicely put together, original but not too edgy, chic and the style of the clothes matched perfectly the magnificent quality of their bags. The best pieces? lovely tailored yet feminine coats and short cocktail dresses.
There have been some more exciting shows during this NY Fashion Week... I will post about them tomorrow!


  1. the rag&bone collection was an unexpected surprise. of course, the rodarte has been one of my favorites, the heavy textures all the while still keeping that ethereal whimsical feel. preen hit the mark, to me, when it came to color combination. love the post! can't wait for more!

    helen :)

  2. Loving the tweedish look of rag & bone--it's hard to do the masculine meets feminine thing with freshness but this hits the mark.

  3. Agreed I don't particularly pay much attention to NYFW but this year there has been some interesting stuff and some great new designers emerging. Love the Rag&bone collection.

    Thanks for stopping by my blog.

  4. Rodarte and Wang are my favs.

  5. and..
    "Proenza Schouler Fall 2010: Graffiti Pants, Schoolgirl Skirts — And Anna Wintour Watching Without Her Sunglasses On" (fashionologie)

  6. So happy to see such a strong collection from Proenza Schouler. I haven't had enough time to properly look at the collections from the past three days, but I agree that Rag & Bone was a pleasant surprize, and that Preen was gorgeous and dreamy.

  7. hey girl, sorry i've been mia - exams and vacays have been consuming my life for a little while. these are great photos ! dont u just love ny fashion week ;) so much excitement

    xx lue

  8. Me quedo con Proenza, Preen y Oscar de la Renta.Preciosas. Mil gracias por este resumen tan bueno que has hecho. A mi los de Rodarte no me acaban de convencer. La primera colección que has puesto no sé dé quién es pero no me resulta my atractiva.
    B* a la Moda

  9. I love Preen & Oscar de la Renta's collections :)

    I love your blog! :)
    - Audrey Allure <3

  10. What a fabulous, fabulous post, darling. I was quite impressed with Rag & Bone myself - what a stunning collection. Though DVF was my favorite. :)

  11. Oh Rodarte... that collection is so growing on me, it was stupendously narrative ! And Proenza was great too, I have to write about it for sure !

  12. I was really amazed about the Alexader wang jacket


Thanks for your lovely comments.