Tuesday 19 April 2011

Unknown Style Icons: Natacha Rambova

What is a style icon? Believe it or not, after researching for almost an hour through the internet, I haven't found a single definition of it. Well, after years of working in fashion and having been influenced by more of them than I care to remember, I would say a style icon is someone who has developped and expressed his - or her - personality through his fashion sense more successfully than the rest of us mortals and who, subsequently, has inspired entire upcoming generations when it comes to defining their style.
But enough definitions; we all know what a style icon is and we all construct our own styles and fashion codes under the constant shadow of our personal flair gods and goddesses. Actually we probably share many of them: Audrey Hepburn, Edie Sedgwick, Brigitte Bardot... and all the rest of the style icons that fill every "Style Icons" list in the Western world. I confess sometimes I find it all a bit tiring. Don't get me wrong, I love Audrey and Edie as much as the next girl, but they are getting so "iconic" that sometimes they look more like marketing products than actual human beings. Kind of like Marilyn Monroe and James Dean, who have reached such an epically iconic status due to their doomed lives and deaths that most people have forgotten what they were like when they were alive. You all know I adore Marilyn and yes, of course I have been inspired on more than one (OK, on more than 100) occasions by Audrey and Edie's style; but there are many more fabulous women who had incredibly personal and otherworldly styles and who, "mysteriously", are still relatively unknown.

While almost all "Style Icons" lists bear the name "Louise Brooks" in its "1920's" section, I can think of so many other women of that era that were truly inspiring in every sense. It's true that perhaps Miss Brooks embodies the 20's woman better than anyone else, but it seems to me that decade was fuller than average of one-of-a-kind eccentric personalities. One of them was Natacha Rambova.
With her beautiful Russian name, her Byzantine-inspired garments, her Lady Godiva-like hair and her superstar Italian husband (she married Rudolph Valentino at the top of his fame), Rambova seemed like the most exotic woman you could imagine. The truth is she was born Winifred Shaughnessy in Salt Lake City, Utah, in a fairly traditional family. She constructed her whole character when she started a career as a classical ballet dancer in New York. There she began designing costumes and scenography for her company, and Hollywood soon called her to work on films. She was the author, among other films, of the costumes in Salome (1923), a delirious film based in Oscar Wilde's play with a delightful atrezzo (including white wigs and lightbulb hair that prove Lady Gaga hasn't invented anything new) based in Aubrey Beardsley's illustrations. Rambova put as much energy into her own style as in her movie work, creating a signature look of elaborate braids, decorated turbans and visible jewellery never devoid of a Western Russia feel. A really sophisticated, striking style that, paradoxically, is incredibly inspiring and easy to achieve.





Tuesday 5 April 2011

Lights, Camera... Action!

The new issue of 160g magazine is finally out, and among lots of other cool features (a Vahina Giocante shot, René's fashion film and an interview with Agent Provocateur's creative director) you can find my latest styling work in it.
Inspired by the endless "scènes de ménage" and dissatisfied housewives throughout film history (from Jean Harlow in Dinner at Eight to Carmen Maura in Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown or Thelma & Louise), the story was shot by Jeremy Zaessinger and styled by my friend Ray Tetauira and myself. Our platinum blonde model was Alyona Subbotina, an up and coming edgy beauty who opened the latest Givenchy show. It was a pleasure working with her and dressing her up in the coolest looks by Prada, Dries Van Noten, Valentino or Rick Owens!






Monday 4 April 2011

Color Crazy

Spring is here and finally the colour block trend has really hit it off. Prada, Cacharel, Gucci and of course Jil Sander; they all have worked it in different ways. But as exciting and bright and optimistic as colour block looks on editorials and runways, I'm slightly terrified at the prospect of seeing everyone stroll down the streets dressed in a "colourful" style (aka slightly clownesque).
As I see it, if the trend is not properly worked, it could all end in Alex de la Iglesia-like catastrophe:


So if you've decided to go color-crazy this summer, here are some tips that can help you get a truly stunning look.

1. Chromatic thinking. There are different types of colours: primary tones, pastels, acid, sherbet or fluoro shades... and you can't just mix everything regardless (unless you seriously master colour). I know this is pretty basic to all of us but the cool thing about it is you can work on your accessories, make-up and hair in different ways depending on the type of colours you're wearing, so the options are endless!

Christopher Kane

Gucci

Miu Miu

2. Colour + Fabric. When working up a colourful look, don't just think tones and shades, also play with fabrics and textures; you'll have more fun and a more interesting look! Shocking pink has very different effects if worn on a cotton top, a lace cardigan or a satin palazzo pant. Textures are as important in a look as colours, but they are too frequently overlooked...

Prada

Jil Sander

Dries Van Noten

Christopher Kane

3. Mix & Match. Nobody wants to walk down the street looking like a live Desigual advert! Even if you're going for a really extreme look, there are ways to avoid looking like a kindergarden's child drawing: mixing complementary colours, or mixing only cold shades with cold shades and warms with warms. I find also really chic mixing very bright colours with basics like white and especially beige. Very modern, very Céline, and always perfect.

Etro

Fendi

Burberry Prorsum

4. The Monochrome look. If what you want is to look truly eye catching, there's nothing like a totally monochromatic look. Just choose your favourite colour and build your complete outfit on different shades of it. The effect has something slightly otherworldly about it, and I can guarantee everyone will be dazzled.

Cacharel

Gucci

Miu Miu

Lanvin

5. Accessorizing. If you're not really in the mood for a colour overdose and you want your look to be sober but still interesting and contemporary, focus on colorizing your accessories: bags, shoes, belts, scarfs and even sunglasses can turn a neutral outfit upside down. So go for it, experiment and become color crazy!

Fendi

Prada

Fendi

Fendi

Christopher Kane

Miu Miu

Burberry Prorsum

Dries Van Noten

P.s: lots of Fendi accessories here, I know... but they are all irresistible, aren't they?