tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88479622319292734202024-03-05T18:41:38.887-08:00Les Paradis ArtificielsMartahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.comBlogger255125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-81308361462234964772013-09-12T10:15:00.000-07:002013-09-12T10:18:07.628-07:00The Ultimate Fashion Week Survival Guide<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Fashion month is not an expedition to the South Pole or the Amazonian jungle, granted. But it's far from your average office day, as you all know (and you all know it because fashion people will happily complain about <i>how perfectly awful</i> fashion month is to anyone that will listen.) The truth is, it's mainly just really tiring. Shows begin rather early in the morning and meetings end late at night, meaning you have to do all your work at night in your hotel room, coping with jetlag (I'm doing New York, London and Paris this season), not eating any nutritious food and basically having your mind occupied 100% by fashion thoughts. It can all turn into a nightmare pretty fast.</div>
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Which is why I'm bringing you this Ultimate Fashion Week Survival Guide. Note the word "Ultimate": this is not your average guide filled with nonsense like "My Alexander Wang bag keeps me grounded and feeling fabulous at all times during FW. I never get out of the house without it", which is what you basically find when you google "fashion week survival guide". We (fashion people) are not that shallow and, after all, surviving FW depends on much more important things than designer hats, gloves and shoes. So here are my Ten Commandments. Following them, or trying to (hey, we're only human) guarantees a little less stress and tiredness and a lot more mental health during this proving month. </div>
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<b>1. Cling to your iPhone charger as if your life depended on it. Which it does, sort of. </b><br />
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Do not, I repeat, do not forget your iPhone charger home (unless you're pretty sure the Vodafone charging drawers are available in Somerset House). Running out of battery in the middle of a 14- hour workday can prove a bummer and a major catastrophe as you will not be able to answer e-mails, call people, tweet or instagram. Possible consequences: coming home at 1 am to 76 urgent e-mails to answer, not being able to locate shows, presentations, friends or drivers, and loss of social media popularity as nobody saw your pictures of the Burberry show. And yes, I speak out of experience. </div>
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<b>2. Your new BFF's name is Dry Shampoo.</b></div>
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Having to wake up at 6 am to wash, condition and style your hair after having slept 3 hours. That's my idea of hell. Thank God someone invented dry shampoo. Just spray some of this miracle dust (Klorane is my favourite brand) with a little head massage in the morning and go out feeling fabulous. No one needs to know you're really a filthy pig who hasn't washed her hair in 6 days. </div>
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<b>3. FORGET heels</b>.</div>
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I cannot stress the word FORGET enough. And by FORGET I don't mean "wear heels in the morning and carry a pair of ballerinas for backup" or "wear ballerinas in the subway and change when you get next to Lincoln Center" or "take flip flops in your bag to change at the end of the day". I mean plain FORGET about them. There's a time and a place for heels. Fashion Week is not it. Heels might be cool for Victoria Beckham to take a bow on the runway or for Daphne Guinness at the Gareth Pugh show, but they are not adequate attire for us fashion proletarians running to the press bus, or from the car, or in the macadam at the Marais. They are physically and mentally dangerous. I've seen many a fabulous stylist fall face flat on the floor, subsequently losing all dignity. And everyone knows when your feet hurt you can't concentrate on anything else, and life just generally loses its meaning.<br />
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<b>4. Try not to completely ruin your health by eating crap and drinking nothing but coffee.</b></div>
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The amount of nutrition-free food being passed around in every Fashion Week on the planet (remember that season we all lived out of Tyrrell's popcorn in London?) makes it pretty difficult to maintain a balanced diet. However, ditching Starbucks Frapuccinos and Pret-a-Manger cake for fruit snacks and green juice (I know, it makes me gag too, but I do feel incredibly energized after drinking it) will be helpful in keeping you feeling human, more or less. </div>
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<span style="color: #0000ee;"><span style="color: black;"><b>5. Sleep is underrated.</b></span> </span></div>
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After a while the "work hard party hard" philosphy just doesn't work. GET SOME SLEEP! Go out a couple of nights every week, maybe party until the wee hours once a week, but try to get at least 6-7 hours of sleep every night the rest of the time. Your body and mind will thank you. And I tell you, parading around the Tuileries gardens in your J W Anderson skirt and Sophie Hulme bag won't make up for the fact that after 3 weeks of sleeping 4 hours a day you're far from a pretty sight. </div>
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<b>6. Friends will help you keep sane</b>.</div>
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It's no secret that fashion is the refuge of clowns, freaks, weirdos and sociopaths of every kind. And they all get together during Fashion Week. The bitchiness can be unbearable, so get yourself a nice group of clever, grounded, lovely fashion friends (cool people are abundant in this industry too!) and get out there with confidence. </div>
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<b>7. Whenever you feel completely inadequate, remind yourself everyone else feels the same. </b></div>
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You get up in the morning, do your nails and hair (well, at least you dry shampoo it), choose a fab outfit consisting of black straight torusers, black cashmere sweater, brogues and a silk leopard trench coat. You go out feeling like a million dollars... and you get to the show venue. Then in your mind it's all "Jesus Christ! Why did I dress like this? I look like a loser! Leopard print went out of fashion last season! I look way too put together, not nonchalant enough. These black trousers make me look like a sausage. If I looked as skinny as that model over there I could pull them off, but of course I had to eat all that cake last night. Also my hair is getting all frizzed. How can this even happen when I haven't washed it with water and soap in a week? For crying out loud, I just realized I'm standing next to Caroline Issa dressed in Alaïa, she makes me look even worse! I'm so ugly I don't deserve to be here. In fact I don't deserve to live." Yes, that feeling is awful, especially considering you have to endure it <i>every day for 5 weeks</i>. But believe me, EVERYONE feels exactly the same. Maybe not Caroline Issa, but I'm pretty sure 90 % of the people at the shows do. Insecurity is only human nature. </div>
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<b>8. Never mind the bollocks... I mean never mind the streetstyle photographers.</b></div>
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I could do a whole blog post about streetstyle photographers. It would probably be titled "Why streetstyle photographers are dumber than a bag of hammers". Seriously. 95% of all streetstyle photographers - bar Bill Cunningham, Scott Schuman and a couple more - will take your picture only because the streetstyle photographer next to them <i>is</i> taking your picture. So if you enter a show and not one photographer snaps you, that's that. If, on the contrary, one of them shows interest, you will soon be feeing like Lady Di being papped from all angles. Some of the things streetstyle photographers look for in a person are, in no particular order: expensive outfits (who cares if they're borrowed?), ridiculous looks (a dress made of teddy bears? Snap away! Sandals in winter? Fabulous!) and it girls and boys (Alexa Chung dressed in tracksuits? Yes please!). I won't even go into the number of buffoons desperately posing for them. Do not try to be snapped by them and don't feel bad if they sneer at you (they actually do that sometimes). No one in the industry cares about them anymore anyway. </div>
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<b>9. Save a little time to do some "real work" every day. </b></div>
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Because there's nothing worse than getting back to Paris after three hectic weeks in a state of exhaustion only to find that you still have to answer 578 e-mails and that a pile of articles needs to be written in the next 48 hours. Use the nights in which you don't go out to work a just a little bit and catch up on your sleep. It's really worth it. After all fashion week is about work.</div>
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<b>10. Don't take it all too seriously. After all, it's only fashion!</b></div>
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Yes, we are taking part in a multi-billion industry here, but we're not saving lives, fixing the ozone layer or sending rockets to Mars. Try to keep some perspective. The world does not end because you missed a show, and no one deserves to be beheaded if a heel broke just before the model went out on the catwalk. As much as we like to think "everyone wants to be us", they don't. We're not the centre of the Universe. So lighten up, sweetie. </div>
<br />Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-82063780692746010902013-06-30T23:25:00.001-07:002013-06-30T23:28:33.173-07:00Hello July, hello Summer!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We have longed and longed and longed for it with despair, but Summer has finally decided to show its "joli minois" in Paris. This is literally the season I live for (Spring? Autumn? Merely transitional periods. Winter? A vile season fit just for hibernation) and to me it's synonym with all kinds of good things: sun, Spain, fresh fruit, gardens, animals, walking barefoot on the grass, swimming pools, surfboards, barbecue parties and friends. So welcome back summer, I love you forever!</div>
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<br />Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-88110271031444760592013-06-19T08:03:00.003-07:002013-06-19T08:07:22.419-07:00Tumblr Love<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm currently at Pitti in Florence steaming (real, sunny, sweaty summer at last, yay!). I'll obviously post about it all as soon as I can but right now I'm way too busy with work and eating, so in the meantime here's a little link to my new Tumblr gif diary, which you should check out right now as it's the most amazing Tumblr gif diary ever (and hey! It's not like every other person has a gif Tumblr). Let me know your thoughts!</div>
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<a href="http://theartificialparadise.tumblr.com/"> http://theartificialparadise.tumblr.com/</a></div>
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Baci from Firenze.</div>
Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-16253558717043998882013-06-16T08:53:00.004-07:002013-06-16T09:17:17.021-07:00Viva Las Vegas<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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If you haven't yet seen Steven Soderbergh's <i>Behind the Candelabra</i> you need to drop whatever you're doing and watch it right now. For Michael Douglas's amazing acting and for the rare pleasure of seeing Matt Damon walking around in skimpy swarovski-embroidered speedos, but also because it's a turning point in film history: this is the first time a TV company hs produced a movie that has the same quality as any traditional Hollywood feature, to the point of premiering at the Cannes Film Festival. Soderbergh had problems rising funds since the story was deemed "too gay" by studios (and they say there is no censorship anymore...), so he got picked up by HBO. I personally hope this is the beginning of a long line of movies with innovative plots that will give the industry a much-needed shake-up.</div>
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<i>Behind the Candelabra </i>has had a great impact on me for all of these reasons, but also because it has rekindled my love affair with the city that Christian extremists have dubbed "a modern-day Sodom and Gomorrah". Las Vegas is truly fabulous! As Joe Pesci said in Scorsese's <i>Casino</i>, "it's a city made of money" where the concept of good taste doesn't exist. In Paris - where the constant focus on tasteful living and understated chic can get quite oppressive - I always feel like I'm committing some sort of capital sin when I express my love of (cue French people cringing) Dolce & Gabbana, Playboy magazine or long gel nails. What I think most French people don't understand is there's an art to "good" bad taste and tackiness too. And no city masters it like good old Vegas. So in case you had forgotten how great the worldwide capital of gambling is, here are 10 reasons to remember: </div>
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<b>1. Las Vegas is the only place where it's acceptable for a man to dress like this.</b><br />
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Or this,</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAfSjNJdJPZK6OFPabYoPLPls5nrh3EdlXnNnvguTHgx_OihDuCW3QA5rCzeZE82zru5I0OVtoF2MiLojXnsYOYwHCLUyRJp_EnZZwb9rm2StCbuN-3mcLi_VZxSbpBXYAbQbY94EuhFM/s1600/vegas-elvis-presley1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAfSjNJdJPZK6OFPabYoPLPls5nrh3EdlXnNnvguTHgx_OihDuCW3QA5rCzeZE82zru5I0OVtoF2MiLojXnsYOYwHCLUyRJp_EnZZwb9rm2StCbuN-3mcLi_VZxSbpBXYAbQbY94EuhFM/s640/vegas-elvis-presley1.jpg" width="496" /></a></div>
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or this. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3_9cT-_lYpShJMcsQ14kYfFBs3Rum8DN1iJNBG9hcD8iL5LAuiwNc3R5ubNN2OYgWkiIAvvUaqiECknG3sAvfvBy-iRfSwqplvCqNHMgLxHwmIXiR6cvvMydlSkPxuIXuUks8Vc6AgGI/s1600/BehindTheCandelabra-ScottThorson-Liberace-2-630-jpg_203410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3_9cT-_lYpShJMcsQ14kYfFBs3Rum8DN1iJNBG9hcD8iL5LAuiwNc3R5ubNN2OYgWkiIAvvUaqiECknG3sAvfvBy-iRfSwqplvCqNHMgLxHwmIXiR6cvvMydlSkPxuIXuUks8Vc6AgGI/s640/BehindTheCandelabra-ScottThorson-Liberace-2-630-jpg_203410.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We don't see nearly enough silk, sequins or fur on men in the rest of the world, which is a shame. </div>
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<b>2. It's the only place where this is considered elegant jewellery.</b></div>
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Liberace does it better. That is all. </div>
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<b>3. It' the only place where it's acceptable for a decent(ish) woman to dress like this:</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPG7nQBd1V3oBXDIVFsfa-mkOZDjUVqCqe15Q4xjcBwCTpS0nIprN7gM22XCWXSt9NgXcJos3LzhahYoKgFGqY165D_mVy_440gIHRL6e5CHHSc28RYK3zmLdnxRM_ryELmLat5LG4vDI/s1600/Sharon-Stone-in-the-film--001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPG7nQBd1V3oBXDIVFsfa-mkOZDjUVqCqe15Q4xjcBwCTpS0nIprN7gM22XCWXSt9NgXcJos3LzhahYoKgFGqY165D_mVy_440gIHRL6e5CHHSc28RYK3zmLdnxRM_ryELmLat5LG4vDI/s640/Sharon-Stone-in-the-film--001.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Or like this.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjzwNxXsdfN3IUFjmmqtjAD1HmJ0TEinyVqoLydWK_eLEFGbT-v6Pf_xB-qTFn3JmuPcpFrKO1lxVHqEBYMGnisWXUZb4tbm4_4nFgG7PqnwGEW_Tadi-MMEZb2dRulVtRqbJgTtwYy2c/s1600/cherfeathers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjzwNxXsdfN3IUFjmmqtjAD1HmJ0TEinyVqoLydWK_eLEFGbT-v6Pf_xB-qTFn3JmuPcpFrKO1lxVHqEBYMGnisWXUZb4tbm4_4nFgG7PqnwGEW_Tadi-MMEZb2dRulVtRqbJgTtwYy2c/s640/cherfeathers.jpg" width="406" /></a></div>
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We, the women from all other cities in the world, have some serious catching up to do on feathers, gold and chinchilla.</div>
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<b>4. It's the only place on earth where it's acceptable for a house to look like this.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1GcxjjbGQcqGTrhOFgPwIft-H5WgtprD8rcGj2boHyKiLIRYsaGFYyYVATlHqZ03ivhKmm5QKdomjj5RgjBQ6ukASoHAdZTGuRfxKTOA3cDdWdxsWfDIGc9dV-tsuif02mGodpvfs0Nk/s1600/LiberaceBathroom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1GcxjjbGQcqGTrhOFgPwIft-H5WgtprD8rcGj2boHyKiLIRYsaGFYyYVATlHqZ03ivhKmm5QKdomjj5RgjBQ6ukASoHAdZTGuRfxKTOA3cDdWdxsWfDIGc9dV-tsuif02mGodpvfs0Nk/s640/LiberaceBathroom.jpg" width="630" /></a></div>
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Enough said.</div>
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<b>5. With 300 sunny days per year, Vegas is the only city in the world where wearing fur coats when there's 30 degrees outside is in.</b></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/--q_CCRzyu0" width="420"></iframe>
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This might be changing though. I hear in Dubai the latest fashion for wealthy princesses is turning the air conditioning full speed and inviting your friends for a fur tea party. But Vegas has a unique brand of fur glamour though.<br />
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<b>6. There must be something wonderful about Vegas when entertainment royalty such as Frank Sinatra, Liz Taylor, Mohamed Ali or Joan Collins goes there to celebrate birthdays and other milestones.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXXkvRhEfILCBTqH1ma673_3FdYkSSI65cZtl-uN-gnGdWqNkujLxefDub1s-3ucmV0R28n-tr7ZvcyuEbf99MdMLkQX1DCjzKMQGRUmSBN7AU3ldNRNnt1VStB-IIAho6lqARuQD504/s1600/3312838799_e729327f66.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXXkvRhEfILCBTqH1ma673_3FdYkSSI65cZtl-uN-gnGdWqNkujLxefDub1s-3ucmV0R28n-tr7ZvcyuEbf99MdMLkQX1DCjzKMQGRUmSBN7AU3ldNRNnt1VStB-IIAho6lqARuQD504/s640/3312838799_e729327f66.jpg" width="526" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKX8LxHl5sjtcHWDsVLjpZBy3yXv3NkG__Wkl0XcG2StQIKAZpoDuD7-8BfVJNMl5TKuFAQhtNj-glhMfjWCXLG_lRCD-6PVfKLXN7pEat5CDkitBPpIxFFpWKQVhmMPMs4bK8pme6d7c/s1600/Joan-Collins_Jubilee-588.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKX8LxHl5sjtcHWDsVLjpZBy3yXv3NkG__Wkl0XcG2StQIKAZpoDuD7-8BfVJNMl5TKuFAQhtNj-glhMfjWCXLG_lRCD-6PVfKLXN7pEat5CDkitBPpIxFFpWKQVhmMPMs4bK8pme6d7c/s640/Joan-Collins_Jubilee-588.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Who wouldn't want to celebrate his birthday amidst a cloud of marabou feathers and girls in sequined bikinis?</div>
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<b>7. If it wasn't for Vegas we wouldn't have <i>Showgirls</i>, that utterly vile masterpiece of film history.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl_eYMz5Toak_q92eekAV4yI17nBEkmqNBodRm_E9hdmu4kWb2XkxOc4iv4f-DWonIqlr1oc7lg9I1zxRiLE0qbebNA3dnF4gpXC7pTdGvbAsl0UvzlI8SLGD_y1YktjoVn0CNMbcMUmA/s1600/Showgirls-240584598-large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl_eYMz5Toak_q92eekAV4yI17nBEkmqNBodRm_E9hdmu4kWb2XkxOc4iv4f-DWonIqlr1oc7lg9I1zxRiLE0qbebNA3dnF4gpXC7pTdGvbAsl0UvzlI8SLGD_y1YktjoVn0CNMbcMUmA/s640/Showgirls-240584598-large.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I've seen softcore porn movies with better plots and dialogue. But somehow this movie is iconic and addictive, so it must be good in an Ed Wood kind of way.</div>
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<b>8. And speaking of showgirls, flooziness reaches a whole new level in Vegas. Which is obviously fascinating.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3GnbxS-sfT3c9VTt1sdHHOvox0WIDwMUxzEPndqBX8Jca7Plo2yDhF7e74bgLmTuZ1c_A0W6xp2_371QCYauS1RkNtVvshDB0synNuJkaSOaYWbb0JaCO0kGJpHacTfMN8N7Snd7lWoc/s1600/casino_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3GnbxS-sfT3c9VTt1sdHHOvox0WIDwMUxzEPndqBX8Jca7Plo2yDhF7e74bgLmTuZ1c_A0W6xp2_371QCYauS1RkNtVvshDB0synNuJkaSOaYWbb0JaCO0kGJpHacTfMN8N7Snd7lWoc/s640/casino_2.jpg" width="576" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimp5Gm6GChywNsYpGHOCwUOnxPpHeet5aoueZ9q6kGiK-fCe7du_7Bv7w2CspRglqVQUdS8PWcg84megoEhNEe5onqCnpyodSbQMf887CN35X4nJ2U0oQpYkoKPL4VcJ9Fz9RyEmLYG9I/s1600/Showgirls-movie-03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimp5Gm6GChywNsYpGHOCwUOnxPpHeet5aoueZ9q6kGiK-fCe7du_7Bv7w2CspRglqVQUdS8PWcg84megoEhNEe5onqCnpyodSbQMf887CN35X4nJ2U0oQpYkoKPL4VcJ9Fz9RyEmLYG9I/s640/Showgirls-movie-03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I must confess I've always been intrigued by Vegas floozies. I saw <i>Casino </i>when I was about 10 (yeah, probably a tad young, but it taught me a valuable life lesson: <i>the house always wins</i>) and I was enthralled by Sharon Stone's Ginger. That girl certainly got around: she knew how to properly gamble, how to tip casino employees to her advantage, how to get 100 dollars out of Robert DeNiro by just saying "I need to go powder my nose" and how to attach her hairpiece flawlessly. It takes a real skill to be a professional Vegas hussy. Chapeau.</div>
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<b>9. Elvis's legend and his sequined overalls wouldn't have existed without Vegas.</b></div>
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We've got a lot to be thankful for.<br />
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<b>10. Vegas has generally made an art form of tackiness and bad taste...</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHGQlds8qYtYW7kQesEZERYbJ9gicL6U0rjjxW2E25UWJJBmapJCzdYDpAD7r3LMrPl5u8CyxQk97fzlrY65lqLGr24SeyXvzwuuUM1VvTYsti36FDGsS5c3SGLZ7mIyTVUEUm2ti1U5w/s1600/Casino-Scorsese-by-Thierry-Meurgues.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHGQlds8qYtYW7kQesEZERYbJ9gicL6U0rjjxW2E25UWJJBmapJCzdYDpAD7r3LMrPl5u8CyxQk97fzlrY65lqLGr24SeyXvzwuuUM1VvTYsti36FDGsS5c3SGLZ7mIyTVUEUm2ti1U5w/s640/Casino-Scorsese-by-Thierry-Meurgues.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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... so don't be afraid to apreciate the goodness in good bad taste and to indulge in it all. After all, what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas. </div>
Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-6526855591137851762013-06-12T13:09:00.005-07:002013-06-12T13:11:56.244-07:00Heart to Heart with Lou Doillon<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><b>A couple of months ago I interviewed the very lovely Lou Doillon (aka we met at a café and talked for two hours, mostly of our love of Leonard Cohen). The interview is featured in this summer's issue of Wonderland Magazine. I thought you might like to read it...</b></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Sipping a
café crème in her camel hair coat, maroon fedora and unruly bangs, Lou Doillon
looks like the epitome of contemporary French chic. But as soon as she starts
talking - in perfect English, “bien sûr” - it becomes clear that the singer is
hardly the typical Gallic girl. “I feel very English whenever I’m in France,
and vice-versa. At home in Paris I constantly bake pies and we only eat British
food; I think that comes as a bit of a shock to my mother, who took up French
nationality in the sixties and knows the Marseillaise by heart.” </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The 30
year-old daughter of Jane Birkin and filmmaker Jacques Doillon was born in Paris, yet grew up listening almost exclusively to American music: “I
used to sit at the back of the car on trips and listen to the tapes my father
played. That’s how I discovered Nina Simone, Patti Smith and, of course, Bob
Dylan. I remember the day I first heard him, I was amazed at the wittiness of
his lyrics.” All of these artists have unconsciously influenced the eleven
melancholy ballads that compose <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Places</i> - Doillon’s first
album. However, the singer/ actress/ model had only one inspiration in mind
while writing her songs. “Unlike Bob Dylan, Leonard Cohen had a real influence
on my album. Dylan might be the best songwriter, but he is never kind. Cohen on
the other hand is, as the French would say, 'bienveillant'. His lyrics are
rather raw, but there is never any viciousness or reproach in them. As I was
writing, I tried to remain as graceful as him… Although my songs speak about
heartbreak, I ended up taking all the anger away from them, and thanking past
lovers for the pain and the lessons they taught me.” </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">A rather unusual point of
view, considering today’s musical landscape. But then again, Doillon's upbringing
and family are hardly conventional. Her parents separated when she was nine
years old, and she spent most of the time with her mother. Doillon's close family also included Serge Gainsbourg and Charlotte, Jane Birkin's daughter by the legendary French singer.<i> </i>“My family had
different and sometimes difficult relationships, but they had a rare kind of
honesty about them. I had my father of course, but Serge was also very present
in my life; none of them were ever scared of using their relationships to make
their art. They didn’t believe in a simplistic interpretation of love where if
you are in a couple you are happy and if you are loveless you are sad. Things
are so much more complicated than that and feelings shift constantly.I think
the French are able to understand and accept that better than other people.” Has that shaped her music? “A sense of vulnerability in
love did, yes.” </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Uncertainty,
frustration and longing fill her lyrics, which are perfectly complemented in the blue
notes of an accompanying piano and the hints of a western guitar. Her
low-pitched voice, far removed from Jane Birkin’s fragile soprano tones, vibrates with despair. “I’m not
a 20 year-old girl anymore. I’ve screamed, cried, laughed, smoked and drank a
lot in my life. I guess my voice reveals those extremes. Etienne Daho, my
producer, once told me it reminded him of Karen Dalton, the American folk
singer. I have been listening to her a lot since.” </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Daho - one of France’s most
respected singers and music producers, who has worked with the likes of
Françoise Hardy, Air and Vanessa Paradis - was the first person to hear Doillon’s
songs. Under his wing, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Places</i> received critical acclaim upon its release. It was also an unexpected commercial success, selling more than 200.000 copies. But the singer remains somewhat puzzled: “I’m a newcomer. So far I’ve
only sang 10 gigs, and when I listen to the album I still can’t believe those
are my songs</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">. Maybe that’s because I work very fast. The writing
process takes over me when I’m in a dark place. I never really look for writing
because as soon as I do I can be sure nothing will come out.” </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Music is simply the
latest of Doillon's creative outlets (she's also worked as an artist, designer, model and actress), but it's definitely her favourite. “It
allows me not only to reveal myself in all my vulnerability and brokenness, but
also to understand myself better. Songwriting is a very unconscious process, sometimes
I don’t know where what I’m writing is coming from. Etienne says it takes three
or four years to understand your own songs; it is probably true. We’ll see!”
However, her plans still involve all kinds of different projects. “The need of expression is so powerful... Why explore it in just one way?
I think more than caring about getting really perfect at one thing we should
aim at being curious and exceptional and simply enjoy ourselves. After all...
we only live once.” </span></div>
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Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-84250178005781617442013-05-21T23:45:00.000-07:002013-05-21T23:50:34.647-07:00New on AnOther Magazine: Keith Haring, The Political Line<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmjn55GgVF7a5gDHLdkyH_VOe6PCp-kCudKDOTdPnAS9HEYCRMnMYgMGvOtxlyjn-gXMv9agd3DY8Ck4yRFqh58PILjWAv04R_ev6OxPFr4SORtt55BqH6rEwgeTHBYYv1abf4zkbQggk/s1600/269614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmjn55GgVF7a5gDHLdkyH_VOe6PCp-kCudKDOTdPnAS9HEYCRMnMYgMGvOtxlyjn-gXMv9agd3DY8Ck4yRFqh58PILjWAv04R_ev6OxPFr4SORtt55BqH6rEwgeTHBYYv1abf4zkbQggk/s640/269614.jpg" width="467" /></a></div>
<br />
Everybody knows Keith Haring: his t-shirts printed with
radiating babies, red hearts and barking dogs became iconic in the
mid-eighties as he started selling them in his Pop Shop in downtown
Manhattan and are nowadays recognized by one and all. Yet few know about
the artist’s longstanding political engagement, his activism and his
fight against racism, environment destruction, homophobia and AIDS. That
is why the Musée d’Art moderne de la Ville de Paris and Le Centquatre gallery have joined forces to present Keith Haring: The political Line. The exhibition <i>–</i> a comprehensive retrospective featuring nearly 250 works <i>–</i>
explores the messages of social justice, individual freedom and change
conveyed by the artist through his canvases, sculptures and graffiti.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1C7mvZF4b9-agma6oZxs29zLeVXZaytGZK8WdCALiV46mNG4Ukstonwy3YSobO8muy5dm4qK5pfKZ0QHm0nVs6_YnPIYhXNVnToWZ-G1xeaKbQ5uiMFG84mWPDBX3hNPghA8-jNl5t6Q/s1600/269578.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1C7mvZF4b9-agma6oZxs29zLeVXZaytGZK8WdCALiV46mNG4Ukstonwy3YSobO8muy5dm4qK5pfKZ0QHm0nVs6_YnPIYhXNVnToWZ-G1xeaKbQ5uiMFG84mWPDBX3hNPghA8-jNl5t6Q/s640/269578.jpg" width="633" /></a></div>
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Haring was exceptionally aware of the international political situation,
something he attributed to having grown up during the boisterous 60s.
Born in Pennsylvania in 1958, he took an early interest in art and began
studying at the Ivy School of Professional Art of Pittsburgh. However,
he soon grew frustrated with commercial art and decided to move to New
York’s School of Visual Arts. It was 1978 and Basquiat, Rauschenberg and
Warhol (who would become his close friends) were at the forefront of
the city’s art scene. It was during these years that he started doing
his subway paintings, which he humorously dubbed “urban guerrilla art”,
working frenetically and risking arrest every time he took the subway
downtown. These quick drawings, which became part of his everyday
routine (some of them have survived time and are visible in the
exhibition, even if Haring wished them to be ephemeral) were made in
chalk over publicity billboards. Sketched quickly in one lean line, they
would shape the artist’s visual identity, gradually turning into the
clean, naïve characters inhabiting his canvases.</div>
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Even through the use of pop art techniques (Coca-Cola logos, dollar
bills and Andy Mouse, a crossover between Mickey Mouse and Andy Warhol,
are recurrent in the exhibit), Haring could not hide the conceptual
nature of his work. His figures were drawn with an almost irritating
precision and their touching candour expressed paradoxically dark and
complicated realities, conveying his message in a very comprehensible
way. With cartoonish charm, a painting in the exhibition depicts the
United States as a muscular character with an erect penis and a tank
where his head should be. Another canvas features capitalism as an
oversized pig merrily devouring humans. Where one painting represents
media as a Technicolor monster trapping humans with its many tongues,
another reflects upon the atomic menace using only black, white and red.
Haring’s political engagement drove him to work mainly in the public
space (he famously painted the Berlin Wall at Checkpoint Charlie in
1986). In his opinion, art should be accessible: “the public has been
ignored by most contemporary artists”, he wrote in his journal, “but the
public needs art. Art is for everybody”.<br />
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<br />Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-80582949668355338232013-05-19T12:15:00.000-07:002013-05-19T12:15:38.984-07:00Unconventional Style Icons: Glenn Gould<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCt7AJ4YVv-WNo1hpj8YBHaTCB1xU-44vj59yzA8ZU5giJOSt1phEsFhzpiBFtO1IDtA0djceQVyO7aHSde3UEn0dUpohddCGT0A-9YywwQFt-Zj-s_XIdWxbhYC8r6cIYDicEkSMkwIo/s1600/gould_wide-38c27d8f68583e9a0be745e10e43c454f4156bc4-s6-c10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="355" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCt7AJ4YVv-WNo1hpj8YBHaTCB1xU-44vj59yzA8ZU5giJOSt1phEsFhzpiBFtO1IDtA0djceQVyO7aHSde3UEn0dUpohddCGT0A-9YywwQFt-Zj-s_XIdWxbhYC8r6cIYDicEkSMkwIo/s640/gould_wide-38c27d8f68583e9a0be745e10e43c454f4156bc4-s6-c10.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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About two years ago I wrote a post titled <a href="http://iloveartificial.blogspot.fr/2011/04/unknown-style-icons-natacha-rambova.html">"Unknown Style Icons: Natacha Rambova"</a>, about the eccentric 1920's costume designer and wife of Rudolph Valentino. I really intended to do a whole series of posts on some of my personal style icons who are generally not identified as so by the mainstream media. However, a random reader wrote me an appalled e-mail telling me sarcastically that "he was very glad I had at long last discovered Rambova but that she was by no means unknown and I should research more before talking without having a clue". That made me feel like such a loser I stopped altogether the unknown style icons series. But, hang it, after two years I've finally gotten over it (sensitive, me?) and decided to start it again, only this time I'll call it "Unconventional Style Icons" so as to not attract more hate mail calling me an ignorant idiot. </div>
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Anyway, after Natacha Rambova I give you Glenn Gould. </div>
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Admittedly, Mr. Gould's style is the least important thing about him. You are looking at one of the biggest musical geniuses of last century. I know the word "genius" is thrown around way too frivolously these days, but in this case it applies. Glenn, who was born in Toronto in 1932, could read music before he could read words. As a baby he would play with the family piano, not by randomly hitting the keys but rather by pressing one key at a time and carefully listening to each sound and its evolution. By the time he was 13 he gave his first concert and at 25 he embarked on a tour of the Soviet Union. He had his very own views on music and believed a performer should be - rather than just a machine playing someone else's compositions - a true interpreter, bringing a new sound to an already known score. Also, besides a genius, he was a hopeless eccentric. </div>
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Before he sat down to play the piano (on his very low wooden chair, a present from his father which he carried to all his performances), Glenn had to make sure the temperature in the room was extremely warm (he was constantly cold).While playing, he invariably hummed to the music, which gave sound technicians many a headache during recording sessions. He disliked being touched; in fact, he didn't much enjoy human company in general and felt better around animals.All these quirks obviously shaped his "nutty genius" style, which to be honest attains levels of cool otherwise only reached by the Japanese. <br />
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I must also mention Mr. Gould had the good looks of a young Ethan Hawke, which also helped (why hasn't anyone made a movie about his life starring Ethan yet by the way?)</div>
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I guess he didn't give much importance to the way he looked, and that's exactly what made Glenn so irresistibly cool: his hair was seldom combed and always too long, his suits were mismatched, his trousers were too wide, his shirt rarely tucked in and more often than not unpressed. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJT26Y1ZVTqVuXEtaE3RUcY2u4AHNd6tVDp1vsppOl44H9PvLkyLLa9N1xhb75WEf4-XHCYE4JwJpEqTBCATR4ZK3UBcATXOvdZbrsveYStMLqIraL9rOME6iiJVLVzq_ChrZpxQ5wp7Q/s1600/glenn-gould-life-hands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJT26Y1ZVTqVuXEtaE3RUcY2u4AHNd6tVDp1vsppOl44H9PvLkyLLa9N1xhb75WEf4-XHCYE4JwJpEqTBCATR4ZK3UBcATXOvdZbrsveYStMLqIraL9rOME6iiJVLVzq_ChrZpxQ5wp7Q/s640/glenn-gould-life-hands.jpg" width="496" /></a></div>
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Because he always felt cold, he used to wear heavy woolen fabrics, big coats, thick sweaters, scarves, knitted mittens and leather gloves (sometimes one on top of the other. Has Junya Watanabe drawn inspiration from the photo above yet?). All these details added up to create a unique style which in my opinion is truly unique and inspirational.What do you think?</div>
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Having steadily studied classical music from the age of 2 to 18, I was familiar with Glenn Gould before I was familiar with Michael Jackson. I know both his music and his persona are not everyone's cup of tea and some people think he is just "too much"; but I'm a fan. Besides admiring his brilliantly creative intrpretations, I've always been partial to him partly tanks to his ambivalent feelings towards people and the fact that he had even more aversion to cold than I do. Over the years he has become one of my icons, and I'm not just talking about style. Even though he had tons of it. </div>
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PS: If you would like to know more about this genius, here is a really interesting documentary featuring lots of original footage of Glenn and his inimitable "allure". </div>
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Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-10762300853229975062013-05-13T23:56:00.002-07:002013-05-13T23:58:34.858-07:00Backstage at Beijing's Dior Homme Show<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqu3yxK60GV93p05RWB4XULkDXN9LxKIK_5pa-WYrqiYw4eNIXuSe_IYXiHhsqHl22RB-gA4SKHQUAg_ubxsgef1aep_QHEd6jeOBtXGxiDlEml0R0IUX8Gx4Yuzo7vfHuxO4HXbGitbk/s1600/IMG_8478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqu3yxK60GV93p05RWB4XULkDXN9LxKIK_5pa-WYrqiYw4eNIXuSe_IYXiHhsqHl22RB-gA4SKHQUAg_ubxsgef1aep_QHEd6jeOBtXGxiDlEml0R0IUX8Gx4Yuzo7vfHuxO4HXbGitbk/s640/IMG_8478.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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On April 26, <span style="color: black;">Dior Homme</span> held its first-ever fashion show outside of Paris, and the spot chosen by Kris Van Assche for this one-off event was Beijing’s <span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">Central Academy of Fine Arts</span> museum.
The organic, airy building with curved walls hosted 600 guests,
including a long list of Chinese celebrities (from media mogul Hung
Huang to “China’s number-one heartthrob” actor Huang Xiaoming) sporting a
studied air of effortless elegance. “After having staged some events in
Shanghai, Beijing seemed like the logical next step”, Van Assche said.
“I love the momentum of China, and how people in this city pay a lot of
attention to the way they look.”</span></div>
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The show was a reprisal of Dior Homme’s A/W13 show which debuted last
January in Paris. Half of the impeccably groomed models were cast
locally and three new looks (which according to the designer will only
be available in China) were added to the show. Drawing inspiration from
1997’s film Gattaca, Van Assche created a rigorous collection with a
futuristic edge (“clothes for tomorrow”) leaning on technical fabrics
and functional details like safety belts and jackets equipped with zips
instead of buttons. “I have been very inspired by sport and the notion
of a healthy mind in a healthy body lately, that’s why I took Gattaca as
the starting point for the collection. From there I worked to achieve
an athletic silhouette, lean yet virile, following the masculine anatomy
in the cut of the clothes.”</div>
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In their austere, waist-belted black suits and tightly combed-back hair,
the models were the embodiment of inexorable physical perfection as they marched
down the catwalk. The show was a cavalcade of high energy, with the
added excitement of a black bat flying into the room and twirling around
over the models’ heads, in what many guests thought to be a deliberate
performance. After the show, a gig by synth-pop duo Hurts (dressed
head-to-toe in Dior Homme, naturally) got the crowd dancing. “I think
they are a great representation of contemporary dandyism”, said a
relaxed Van Assche as models challenged the crowd to a dance-off,
beginning what would be an all-night after party.</div>
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<br />Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-18287728574493747552013-05-09T12:14:00.001-07:002013-05-09T13:59:48.912-07:00Punk: from Chaos to Conformism<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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On monday I got depressed upon witnessing that travesty of a punk celebration that was the Met Ball. Seeing that gang of self-important celebrities parading around in six-figure outfits and smiling through their flawlessly whitened teeth made me feel, as Leonard Cohen would put it, like the war was over and the good guy lost. Welcome to 2013, where doublethink is as current as in Orwell's 1984 and we honor punk by placing a bunch of clothes in an official building and then letting one of the most powerful women in the world host an expensive party and invite a bunch of mainstream idols for a lovely politically correct black tie ball. The irony is endless. </div>
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I've heard all kinds of anecdotes about that evening. From Madonna stating that punk is not caring what anybody thinks while sporting a Givenchy look that surely took several weeks to put together, to Vivienne Westwood being cut off in an interview because the journalist wanted to speak to Hilary Rhoda instead, to Kate Upton saying in a Zoolanderish tone "I don't think I fully understood the theme". It all seemed like a colossal joke. Kristen McMenamy was one of the few guests who got it right, laughing "this is the antithesis of punk. Punk is not putting it on. Punk is angry. Punk is not pretending. Punk is real. This is like a costume party for punk". After which she proceeded to spit on the red carpet - subsequently becoming an absolute goddess to my eyes. </div>
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Fashion advice for red-carpeters from Siouxsie Sioux and her friends.</div>
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And what about the exhibition itself? "I had a little look and I liked some of my stuff..." said Dame Viv, "and we'll leave it there". Curated by Andrew Bolton with the help of photographer Nick Knight and filmmaker Ruth Hogben, it had everything to be fantastic; but in a 21st century where political correctness, advertisers and antibacterial gels rule the world, it turned into a toned-down, antiseptic version of punk. Apparently all references to drugs (except for the Ramones song <i>Now I Wanna Sniff Some Glue</i>) and swastikas were wiped out. And that's where the fashion industry - generally so obsessed with aesthetic perfection - fails to understand that punk is not about being fabulous; on the contrary, it's about filth and trouble and ugliness. And that's the beauty of it (and no reconstruction of Seditionaries or CBGB's bathroom can entirely make up for it, although those were definitely cool ideas).</div>
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The Swastika was decontextualized and widely used by punks for obvious shock value but also as a reflection on the boundaries of freedom of expression. And for the zillionth time, this doesn't mean punks were nazis.</div>
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Dame Viv & friends showing their stuff. I hoped something like this would happen at the Met Ball. How could I be so deluded.</div>
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Punk was all about trouble, see? Here's Malcolm McLaren (my least favourite punk- read John Lydon's autobiography to know why) all thrilled at being arrested after the Jubilee boat trip incident.</div>
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Sid Vicious injecting himself with heroin in 1978. Punk is sometimes also about drugs. Why act like it never happened?</div>
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This is punk too, but I guess Anna Wintour and her sponsors wouldn't approve.</div>
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Sid said it: "I'm not chic. I could never be chic". And that's the problem with this whole <i>Punk: From Chaos to Couture</i> thing. It aims to be a high fashion exhibition, therefore a chic affair, yet when Vivienne Westwood established Sex in King's Road with Malcolm McLaren she was hardly considered a high-end designer.Of course I understand the importance of punk in the history of fashion and its enduring influence (and actually studied it quite a bit at Central Saint Martins with the amazing Peter Towse, who witnessed the punk years firsthand), but I think studded Burberry trench coats or Versace dresses decorated with gold safety pins are purely anecdotic. Also, as someone very cleverly pointed out to me, original punk clothes were meant to be worn. The rest of the clothes in the exhibition (all the numbers by Galliano or Margiela or Slimane) were conceived for the catwalk and for editorial purposes. They were not lived in. And what is fascinating about punk (at least for me) is that it's all about stories, about how people lived and about the spontaneous narrative of their styles. </div>
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Joey Ramone and Debbie Harry, king and queen of cool. </div>
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Dee Dee Ramone being cute. Also, check out Joey in the background being a total style god.</div>
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I definitely understand how challenging it must have been for Andrew Bolton to conceive and put together the exhibit from a 100% fashion point of view. Maybe it should have been about more than just fashion (but would it have its place in the Met then?). It is doubtessly a privilege to be able to see original Vivienne Westwood and Katharine Hamnett T-shirts (some of them had not been seen in years), but from what I've seen the exhibition feels kind of lifeless.And punk was all about energy! Someone (I don't remember who) was defending the retrospective on Twitter stating in an outraged way that "of course it is about the clothes! What other outlet did the punks have to express themselves? Just music". "Just music"? For a start, I don't think music was secondary to style for most punks. And I do think they had other outlets: they spat, they provoked, they hung out together. Okay, they did not focus on creating beautiful sculptures or brainy avant-garde films. And why? Because punk was not about those things! If it is called "punk" it's because it's all about being a punk. </div>
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CBGB's was an art form in itself.</div>
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DOA had the right attitude.</div>
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One of the anecdotes that depressed me most about the Met Ball was the one about the punkish-looking boys and girls who were "hired" to stand on the stairs and give the grandiose Met a bit of a subversive feeling to counteract all the (hideous) satin ball gowns. Anna Wintour told one of the boys "you look very handsome", to which he politely responded "uh... thank you. You look beautiful too". I'm pretty sure I'm not the only person in the planet (designers of the world, I'm looking at you) who would have loved to see a real punk adress Ms Wintour in a typically punk manner. But as the great Grace Coddington said, "I don't think real punks have been invited". </div>
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This is what I mean by punk behaviour. You have to adore Johnny Rotten being all impretinent yet repentant like a school kid when he says the word "shit".</div>
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So was the whole thing a complete failure? Actually I don't think so. It was openly commercial and shamelessly anti-punk, and it has gotten me and countless others exceedingly upset upon noticing how full of utter crap our society is. But it also got many people thinking about the true essence of punk, and discussing it - in a very 21st century way - through social networks. As a matter of fact, ever since monday night all I see on my Facebook and Twitter feeds are really interesting discussions about the importance of the punk movement, what it stood for and why we have to still be punks at heart. You gotta hand it to the Met Ball's glamourous clique: by making us violently react to them, they have brought true punk back in fashion. </div>
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Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-70508463222056081252013-04-30T00:46:00.001-07:002013-04-30T00:46:43.420-07:00Beijing in Pictures<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Two weeks ago I got the kind of phonecall we all dream about: Kris Van Assche's Dior office was calling, they were organizing a menswear show in China and would I be free to go to Beijing in 5 days. Well, would I! a very busy week ensued, which was spent basically doing paperwork and worrying that I wouldn't get my visa (let's just say journalists, even the ones who work in fashion, are not exactly the darlings of the Chinese Communist Party). However, everything worked out in the end and I found myself flying towards a city I didn't know much about...</div>
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I'm not really sure what I was expecting from Beijing; certainly a very (very) big city where tradition meets modernity. But what is really amazing about China's capital is its energy. It's impossible to describe, it oozes old time mystery and 21st century excitement (and endless pollution. Sometimes it's even impossible to see 100 metres ahead of you because of that). In the picture above is the view I got of the city from my room in the 49th floor of the Park Hyatt hotel. </div>
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Traditional China is still there, though, sometimes so idyllic it feels like a Hollywood setting. These pictures were taken around the Summer Palace a bit outside the city, where the Qing emperors used to spend their summers (and which was massacred by the "very civilized" English and French during the XIXth century and rebuilt later). Just taking a walk there makes you feel so zen and grounded - and the experience is enhanced by the fact that there are hardly any obnoxious Western tourists dressed in shorts and crocs. Seriously, that makes Beijing the perfect destination. </div>
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Posing in the Forbidden city with the lovely Noémie from the Dior team. We learned the most impressive stories about concubines and eunuchs there.</div>
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Some charmingly decadent traditional neighbourhoods still exist in the city, although most of them are being destroyed in order to build yet more huge towers to house banks and financial institutions while people are being relocated. It just doesn't make much sense to me how any self-respecting Communist party would do that kind of thing, but oh well. I think as a matter of fact one of the things that fascinates me about China so far is its political and socio-economic situation. Being able to talk to real people and see how they live was, for me, the most priceless thing about my trip. As was seeing senior citizens still dress as they did during the Cultural Revolution, wearing blue worker jackets and caps with red stars embroidered on them.</div>
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Yes, I did have the time to take a walk on the Great Wall. And there were no tourists! </div>
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The Forbidden City was really impressive and made me think of Ryuichi Sakamoto's music for <i>The Last Emperor</i>. Most of the pavillions in it are being restored, but there are still some decadent bits like this one, which made me ecstatic with aesthetic joy, much to the confusion of Chinese people who couldn't understand how a decaying wall could make me so happy. </div>
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Dior Homme's amazing show. More on that tomorrow, as it deserves a post on its own.</div>
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And of course we partied like crazy fashion people after the show, dancing to Hurts's live gig with Chinese celebrities (I admit I didn't know who anyone was, but they were all lovely and fun!). Here I am towards the end of the night, after too much champagne and too much jet lag, with Julien from Dior. For some reason at this point I was wearing Julien's Dior Homme outfit and he was wearing my Carolina Herrera leopard coat, which prompted our motto for the night (and our whole stay in China): what happens in Beijing stays in Beijing. </div>
<br />Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-73455070175429168912013-03-26T15:26:00.001-07:002013-03-26T15:26:52.564-07:00A model's beauty secrets: Bette Franke tells it all<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMi9sc-OxnkFTxAVp-8vYsQy56hfAJOa2fnA2Hr60DY4U3zSRv2UYiqF_lAqC-9cv-M-SZXUrYLl2AWp1j35jOTy-0k2o2_f9jFBTRsNs1XfnaanMhOUtqq_9UT71783-FBeafDsreRu4/s1600/7bdf8aa0b214acf8cfe0aefa5b4291d8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMi9sc-OxnkFTxAVp-8vYsQy56hfAJOa2fnA2Hr60DY4U3zSRv2UYiqF_lAqC-9cv-M-SZXUrYLl2AWp1j35jOTy-0k2o2_f9jFBTRsNs1XfnaanMhOUtqq_9UT71783-FBeafDsreRu4/s640/7bdf8aa0b214acf8cfe0aefa5b4291d8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I met up with the lovely Dutch model Bette Franke a couple of weeks ago around tea and raspberry <i>choux à la crème</i> at the See by Chloé perfume launch to talk beauty and makeup. When not strutting the catwalks or fronting Stella McCartney campaigns, Bette is a laid back, fresh-faced girl who wouldn't look a bit out of place in the chicest spots of the Hamptons. Beauty treatment junkie as I am, I just had to get the lowdown on her beauty routine. </div>
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<b>What's the best beauty advice you've ever been given?</b></div>
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After years of wearing dramatic make-up at work (and sometimes being made up several times a day), I can positively say the best advice I've been given is... to keep it natural! Make-up artists have often advised me against pancaking my face with foundation, lipstick and eyeshadow, so on a day to day basis I just wear a touch of blush and some pink lip gloss. </div>
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<b>Tell me your anti-stress miracle remedy.</b></div>
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I'm not one to run to fancy spas when I want to relax... Instead, I enjoy biking around Central Park; exercising and looking at the trees really takes my mind off my day. Otherwise, I just make a cup of green tea and curl up on the sofa with a book. I am a big fan of cocooning. </div>
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<b>Your favourite beauty product?</b></div>
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I have the same problem as most models: I tend to get allergies and reactions on my skin from all the make-up I have to wear... Luckily I've found a miraculous moisturizer, Nars's Crème Hydratation Lumière. I've been using it for several months, it's really thick and creamy and just feels incredibly comfortable. I've become addicted to it!</div>
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<b>Who is your beatuy icon?</b></div>
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I don't really have one. I often find most of the people I meet (not just models!) are beautiful in different ways or have striking facial features. As I see it, anyone can be a beauty icon. Beauty is such a broad concept...</div>
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<b>What's your beauty routine before a party?</b></div>
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It's not very different to my everyday routine, to be honest; just a little more sophisticated. I do wear foundation when I go out at night. My favourite is Calvin Klein, it's really luminous, which comes in handy after an exhausting day of work. I also wear a very light, sheer lipstick, also from Calvin, in a fuchsia tone. That's all. No eyeshadow, no mascara. </div>
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<b>...And your anti-hangover plan the day after?</b></div>
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First of all, getting up. You start feeling sorry for yourself in bed and your whole day is automatically ruined! A shower and a home made carrot and ginger juice give me a jumpstart (I love juicing), then I make a point of getting out of the house and brunch out with friends.Works like a charm, every time. </div>
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<b>Do you ever detox or diet?</b></div>
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No. I do eat lots of fresh fruits and vegetables on a daily basis and I don't eat sugar often. I'm not a big fan of cake, so it doesn't bother me all that much. But I don't believe in dieting: all it does is make you desperately want what you're not supposed to eat. Indulging from time to time is necessary, just as eating healthily.</div>
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<br />Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-6294086908114099252013-03-14T13:11:00.002-07:002013-03-14T13:11:42.143-07:00Throwback Thursday: Remember when Kate got pink hair?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmSfSq2i_S5xawao75C4EoOdXD4gBcZfJwHoYEppS25MS_LrYcHF3IUCfZTn8XcDVJ8V3NW73tMwHRryJ_S1VMS-_Hg-obx9f-4G0e77qoBxDJqvov3-2rKKqEg6VYy7BXY8tkTvb7O74/s1600/kate+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmSfSq2i_S5xawao75C4EoOdXD4gBcZfJwHoYEppS25MS_LrYcHF3IUCfZTn8XcDVJ8V3NW73tMwHRryJ_S1VMS-_Hg-obx9f-4G0e77qoBxDJqvov3-2rKKqEg6VYy7BXY8tkTvb7O74/s640/kate+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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... And pink hair never looked better. Move over Charlotte Free. Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-25798812888704135212013-03-12T14:20:00.000-07:002013-03-12T14:20:01.982-07:00Paris Haute Couture: A Chat with Olivier Saillard and Anne Zazzo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Nothing about the fashion industry makes us dream like haute couture
does. Extremely precise yet outstandingly creative, this discipline
(officially started by Charles Frederick Worth in the 1860s, although
heavily inspired by the flamboyant fashions and lifestyle of the court
of Versailles) oozes magic. And while today many question the current
influence and the future of couture, <strong>Olivier Saillard</strong> – director of the renowned Musée Galliéra in Paris – and <strong>Anne Zazzo</strong>
– art historian and curator – believe its evolution will only take it
to new heights. Together, they have written a book and curated an
exhibition (both titled Paris Haute Couture) exploring its history from Poiret to Saint Laurent, and its fascinating prospective. For my latest article on AnOther Magazine, I got together with these two true Parisians to discuss savoir-faire and creativity in today's couture. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-SZu7WAeBRDZV37QtcOzngKb_SZVYPr0agcWJ5U-ln84NJbwtJcMsbhvskY80JYjperikri8bJ8pQu6p7lI7KJ16GH9wrWkO-8knTc5FnezIk-DBctgC-zbHDlpCBq5wfrQHrPel6_C0/s1600/260664.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-SZu7WAeBRDZV37QtcOzngKb_SZVYPr0agcWJ5U-ln84NJbwtJcMsbhvskY80JYjperikri8bJ8pQu6p7lI7KJ16GH9wrWkO-8knTc5FnezIk-DBctgC-zbHDlpCBq5wfrQHrPel6_C0/s640/260664.jpg" width="446" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Haute couture is so deeply associated with Paris… could it ever exist outside of the French capital?</b><b>Olivier Saillard:</b>
Couture is first and foremost the reflection of French heritage and
tradition, and a certain idea of savoir-faire transmitted from
generation to generation. Economically, it demands and enormous amount
of money and its profits aren’t big, so it takes a very passionate
investor – the likes of Dior, Gaultier or Chanel – to finance an haute
couture collection. In those terms, I don’t think it is possible to
produce couture outside of Paris today, especially considering the
current economic climate. However, I do believe other countries could
very well invent their own forms of couture, different from the French
and inspired by their own cultures; why not?</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>What are the “métiers d’art”? How essential are they to haute couture?</b><b>Anne Zazzo:</b>
Since in haute couture the basic rule is to make everything entirely by
hand and all kinds of materials are involved in it, the industry needs
experts to work exclusively in the treatment of feathers, embroideries,
gloves or buttons. These are what we call in France the “métiers d’art”:
ateliers like Lesage, Lemarié, Massaro
or Jean Clément who have become necessary to couture through the years.
They are craftsmen whose savoir-faire is unique, and their work adds to
the value of a couture gown. They are actually so apprised that couture
designers like Karl Lagerfeld have been sponsoring and supporting them
for years.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsapJeMrxR7sJf3sAFBjfS-5U80DxjRCEschysnmn1EFZs1RsaOYstk8DHMFczYrWGoqDCyfiw5Ft06Bdo0dVOnzuZe30GIma9Gv6LnjSYqL6gXx8wV0_GDuuaCZpHYfyhdo_T2PeOkfE/s1600/260660.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsapJeMrxR7sJf3sAFBjfS-5U80DxjRCEschysnmn1EFZs1RsaOYstk8DHMFczYrWGoqDCyfiw5Ft06Bdo0dVOnzuZe30GIma9Gv6LnjSYqL6gXx8wV0_GDuuaCZpHYfyhdo_T2PeOkfE/s640/260660.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>You say haute couture is paradoxically best revealed through what it conceals, what do you mean by that?</b>OS: The
public in general – and even many people who work in the fashion
industry – tend to identify couture with precious, heavily ornamented,
embroidered clothes. However, the more a gown is simple, the more it is
haute couture: for it is through simplicity that we can best appreciate
the craft that goes into couture. Take for instance Madame Grès; it took
her years of work and experience to be able to think and execute her
trademark dresses, and ultimately that is much more important than any
amount of hours spent making a gown.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Can bad taste exist in couture?</b>AZ: Haute couture is
heavily coded and traditionally follows a very strict etiquette.
Designers have always shown the clothes in a specific order, according
to the sartorial needs of women of the world 24 hours a day: morning
suits for both the city and the countryside, tea dresses, cocktail
dresses, evening gowns… Each occasion has its own outfit, and such
codification tacitly implies good taste. However, as Picasso said, good
taste is the enemy of creativity, and haute couture is a creative craft.
When a designer leaves his mark upon his collections, he inevitably
pushes the boundaries of taste. It happened with Worth, who dressed
1870s women in tapestry motifs (prompting many jokes at the time), with
Schiaparelli and her extremely sexualised collections and with
Galliano’s eerie proportions and ornament overdose. So in a way, bad
taste is very couture!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKt96dW6JPnh9yx-8Y6nh9epYHXtTr0nQMVTKWpEcA1wCBcYw9hMPlcu4bBqKjTaT2GttajGWai8oX35NLZRcFPsQ-EZmrKcixtFxfrkje-5nxZmFZr23cj8P5ZZaLOkhV5hlrE4YwlKk/s1600/260668.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKt96dW6JPnh9yx-8Y6nh9epYHXtTr0nQMVTKWpEcA1wCBcYw9hMPlcu4bBqKjTaT2GttajGWai8oX35NLZRcFPsQ-EZmrKcixtFxfrkje-5nxZmFZr23cj8P5ZZaLOkhV5hlrE4YwlKk/s640/260668.jpg" width="534" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Is there a sense of nostalgia to today’s couture?</b>OS: I see
more and more young designers trying to find new, sustainable ways to
work, and looking back to a time when couture was produced in a more
artisanal way. People like Bouchra Jarrar and Alexandre Vauthier have
built small teams and sometimes work with friends and family. They don’t
feel the need to grow exponentially or to open boutiques in every
street corner in China. Then, of course, there is a much less exciting
form of nostalgia in couture – aesthetic nostalgia. Some designers
create nothing but incredibly ornate evening gowns. Not only are they
perpetuating a false cliché of what haute couture is, they are also
creating dresses for a kind of woman who doesn’t really exist anymore.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>What is so magical about owning a couture garment?</b>OS: It’s
not about the price (I really think for people who can afford to buy
haute couture the investment is not that important). It’s about the
personal relationship of a woman – and her body – and a dress. Custom
made clothing, no matter whether it is couture or a very simple dress
that one has made for oneself, is always something we cherish, something
we are not easily tempted to throw away. It’s the radical opposite of
fast fashion. Couture dresses take time to make, several fittings… They
are executed with the utmost attention and tenderness and meant
exclusively for one person’s body. Dresses made by Azzedine Alaïa or
Chanel have a very special kind of lightness: they feel natural, almost
like petals. That’s where the magic of haute couture is.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVvZ_VajlvHaksFRJBP2XlJKeNuFsxEkHKoxUiUFzbXqm_ePWk1VvdOZg9NkYZ4kBw0hjDdGRmSw9228RIRo6InybkiIIiY9r6xveOAnjk54HJy9NCj49WLK1UWhD6XgKp30V5GxaBCOI/s1600/260672.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVvZ_VajlvHaksFRJBP2XlJKeNuFsxEkHKoxUiUFzbXqm_ePWk1VvdOZg9NkYZ4kBw0hjDdGRmSw9228RIRo6InybkiIIiY9r6xveOAnjk54HJy9NCj49WLK1UWhD6XgKp30V5GxaBCOI/s640/260672.jpg" width="454" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>What has prêt-à-porter inherited from haute couture?</b>AZ: The
obsession of permanent creation. Designers like Yves Saint Laurent (and
later Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel) came from haute couture and developed
prêt-à-porter collections, transmitting the idea that a brand has to
have its own style and image. The cult of designers comes also from
couture… Today, Alber Elbaz and Hedi Slimane are just as respected as
any haute couture designer.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>What should we expect from haute couture in the 21st century?</b>OS:
It will of course have to change. We no longer live in a world which
allows us to be dressed in couture from dawn till dusk. We have entered a
new era, but that doesn’t mean this form of art has to disappear. Right
now a new, extremely creative way of making prêt-à-porter is emerging
which could take over couture houses (given of course that mass
production would slow down or stop). I personally think the French
government should be a lot more supportive and help finance small
ateliers with expert craftsmen and “couturières”, then invite one
designer - I’m thinking of Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo or some of the rising
talents of the London scene - each season to create a collection. That
would let them unleash their creative side without thinking of
production constraints… Wouldn’t it be wonderful?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdpR-nZyWUC6HimFGInKdmSUbFroX7-VjphUqz8KBsTqt9xnX_mdd02D6KluVvf2Es2xbh_OheDXwJ9yCZX5i_DaRltuj2ecv9psX3H9dY-cb-xie39EgdTlQpX7V8zg0u8YBvxKN6uMw/s1600/260715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdpR-nZyWUC6HimFGInKdmSUbFroX7-VjphUqz8KBsTqt9xnX_mdd02D6KluVvf2Es2xbh_OheDXwJ9yCZX5i_DaRltuj2ecv9psX3H9dY-cb-xie39EgdTlQpX7V8zg0u8YBvxKN6uMw/s640/260715.jpg" width="446" /></a></div>
<br />Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-20658444864039014412013-02-13T10:17:00.000-08:002013-02-13T10:17:49.199-08:00Four weddings and no funeral: a Valentine’s Day Special<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29FoZteltcnbfKaGZ-cnPywu8TksJXoYlb-OauBoLlzGreUOfLtkmKo-gCR_YFm1lxliksFtYKAuZiZKhkfgi19_YsSULDHNGk84p7bF33DQ77HpFO7zNEP8ykDBsZaNI0SKL_giVef8/s1600/0911-VO-WELL91-01_162109804119.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29FoZteltcnbfKaGZ-cnPywu8TksJXoYlb-OauBoLlzGreUOfLtkmKo-gCR_YFm1lxliksFtYKAuZiZKhkfgi19_YsSULDHNGk84p7bF33DQ77HpFO7zNEP8ykDBsZaNI0SKL_giVef8/s640/0911-VO-WELL91-01_162109804119.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<![endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I know what you’re all
thinking: “Not another lovey-dovey Valentine’s Day post, please!” I know
because I invented Valentine’s Day dissing. All of you know just <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">how much</i> I loathe all the Valentine cheesiness,
the heart-shaped chocolate boxes, the red rose bouquets and the candlelit
dinners with white chocolate and raspberry puddings followed by, well, you
know, what two people “in love” are <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">supposed</i>
to do on Valentine’s Day. Call me cynical, I think love is not best expressed
by Nestle chocolates and roast beef served between two candles. But hey, I’m
not just cynical, I’m also superficial and looking for lots of new readers, so
I’ve decided to give in to the Valentine’s Day hype and do a post on what some
people consider “the greatest expression of eternal love”. I consider it a post
on “really fancy, cool weddings (with delicious cakes)”. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What does love have to do with it? </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Thought weddings were the
epitome of “romance”, all sparkling princesses and prince charmings and
meringue-like dresses and pink cupcakes? Think again, weddings can be cool,
eccentric and… super chic! Here’s proof: these four fashion industry insiders
whipped up weddings so fabulous they almost made me lose all my cynicism and
wish I was hitched. Take a look at these four different styles and tell me
which one is your favourite!</span></div>
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<![endif]--><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The
Countryside Bride: Kate Moss</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">When it comes to British
weddings, there’s only one Kate (and I don’t mean Middleton). Miss Moss
exceeded expectations with her 1930’s English Rose-inspired wedding. The girl
got everything right: chiffon dress by (a recently outcast) John Galliano,
bridesmaids wearing fresh flower crowns, garden celebration and a three-day
party that would have impressed Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tip:</b> Kate served sidecar cocktails
(brandy, orange liqueur and lemon juice) all through the celebrations… mixed by
her favourite barista from the Ritz in Paris!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRAImGHv4FdPdCc4AfaUOHqoM2WtMjqJe4XlXlEUPnKsnBBuhENTIwwvoNMC2mp7QvQSC7b4LJoFGQcdZDG8Lsu3hnJ4ltB0ihuJ5JTPiYYjVIjbDrUtEZkqpDFANarlEs5GL5XGAGCQM/s1600/kate-moss-wedding-pics8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRAImGHv4FdPdCc4AfaUOHqoM2WtMjqJe4XlXlEUPnKsnBBuhENTIwwvoNMC2mp7QvQSC7b4LJoFGQcdZDG8Lsu3hnJ4ltB0ihuJ5JTPiYYjVIjbDrUtEZkqpDFANarlEs5GL5XGAGCQM/s640/kate-moss-wedding-pics8.jpg" width="456" /></a></div>
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<![endif]--><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The
Bohemian Bride: Margherita Missoni</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Nozze all’italiana for
Margherita: the Missoni heiress chose a dress custom made for her by
Giambattista Valli (it’s only natural. After all, who’s ever heard of a Missoni
all-white dress) that made her look like a Virgin in a Boticelli painting. Can
you think of anything more delightful than that? She could: Miss Missoni made
her guests sit on the grass, in signature multicoloured Missoni cushions, to
have a picnic under the olive trees. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tip:</b>
Margherita hired a fortune-teller who read everybody’s palms. I dare you to be
more Fellini than that. </span></div>
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<![endif]--><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The
Avant-Garde Bride: Katie Shillingford</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Who said city weddings were
only for anally retentive boring bourgeoises? Katie Shillingford proved getting
married in central London
can be mega cool. The stylist made her appearance spotting candyfloss pink hair
(YES!) and a Gareth Pugh wedding gown that took my breath away, looking like a 21<sup>st</sup>
century version of a Pre-Raphaelite muse. Along with her bridesmaids (dressed
in black), she partied until the small hours at Eltham Palace
and danced to the music DJed by Matthew Stone. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tip:</b> Katie’s wedding cake was all white icing and white flowers on
the outside… and rainbow sponge on the inside.</span></div>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9isjoGZtHqO1aXWYpMW_n-xX68zOEuYDIlJiY4Wr6OOERW6AeKFrsGhXA_hed8Qs7pc2-OIHGldU_OQxOvN8dykBtlcI0pctBFZ_6BhDQ3obrK8yaVkz6fN1XioBIsrpzYckl10w0QlA/s1600/main-katie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9isjoGZtHqO1aXWYpMW_n-xX68zOEuYDIlJiY4Wr6OOERW6AeKFrsGhXA_hed8Qs7pc2-OIHGldU_OQxOvN8dykBtlcI0pctBFZ_6BhDQ3obrK8yaVkz6fN1XioBIsrpzYckl10w0QlA/s640/main-katie.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<![endif]--><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The
Sustainable Bride: Pamela Love</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Meanwhile, on the other
side of the pond, jewellery designer Pamela Love got married in Long Island. Not one to do things halfway, she showed her
commitment to ecological and ethical causes through a Native American-inspired
aesthetic (tepees, an acoustic guitar gig, wildfires and Appalachian blankets)
and a sustainable dress (which she wore barefoot) and delicious vegan menu. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tip:</b> no need to throw money around,
Pamela and her friends organized the party themselves, sourcing the food from
nearby farms, mixing juice cocktails and arranging wild flowers in mason jars. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyW6r1f7AB6ThFKroZ4kpkHYIHBoMb-NdMJhmOo3YxaHioYg3TGiWbkshS-LKhJQ8zAs4ftUTSKep4CN_2QtcbGHTfzQf1mbiEsDXixu-PGMnU5sgbGeWjp34TWr_63QnaLpkEuPbUPs8/s1600/tumblr_m6hifbybzu1qa7511o1_1280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyW6r1f7AB6ThFKroZ4kpkHYIHBoMb-NdMJhmOo3YxaHioYg3TGiWbkshS-LKhJQ8zAs4ftUTSKep4CN_2QtcbGHTfzQf1mbiEsDXixu-PGMnU5sgbGeWjp34TWr_63QnaLpkEuPbUPs8/s640/tumblr_m6hifbybzu1qa7511o1_1280.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTUoRgc_Vag8J8tCC0Atdx4YkpGS2sPZYrCVjvBfDV5kHlcWYxfhz_za0nGKThbYf3aHfYOMpq3-Anxh5z0HWXMTERHwHkt104GviEPtAUHsL6dHSu1Y-b62vnSRzKDzM29o76KIEh8R0/s1600/pamela-love-12_15412395165.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTUoRgc_Vag8J8tCC0Atdx4YkpGS2sPZYrCVjvBfDV5kHlcWYxfhz_za0nGKThbYf3aHfYOMpq3-Anxh5z0HWXMTERHwHkt104GviEPtAUHsL6dHSu1Y-b62vnSRzKDzM29o76KIEh8R0/s640/pamela-love-12_15412395165.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-86691369182082753072012-12-14T09:52:00.002-08:002012-12-14T09:52:49.612-08:00Kiki de Montparnasse for AnOther Magazine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNAwq-7LwjsDTHMqTXaBHCwTmO48R8lXml726mycPMuZr5L508SxGhhEKaF1o8b94wKc7WDOcy5yQLMJ9nVsO8rgr-YtTkJIB7pxpYH2g-9H29OtUZGi5UJkFw46siWazEHJC3-VaBsSk/s1600/manray.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="516" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNAwq-7LwjsDTHMqTXaBHCwTmO48R8lXml726mycPMuZr5L508SxGhhEKaF1o8b94wKc7WDOcy5yQLMJ9nVsO8rgr-YtTkJIB7pxpYH2g-9H29OtUZGi5UJkFw46siWazEHJC3-VaBsSk/s640/manray.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>My new article on <a href="http://www.anothermag.com/">AnOther Magazine</a>'s website is about the wonderful Kiki de Montparnasse!</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
She was the toast of Montparnasse at a time when the popular quarter in
the south of Paris welcomed penniless avant-garde artists and bohemian
characters. Her raven black garçonne bob, prominent nose and art deco
Cupid’s bow made her recognisable to one and all. Kiki de Montparnasse
was not particularly beautiful or elegant, but there was something
electric about her: “she was very wonderful to look at”, said Hemingway.
Soutine, Foujita, Gargallo and of course Man Ray must have agreed with
him, for they all asked her to pose for them. But Kiki de Montparnasse
was more than just an artist’s model.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Born Alice Ernestine Prin, a healthy country girl brought up by a
kindly and unshockable grandmother, Kiki de Montparnasse first arrived
in Paris in 1913, aged 12, to work as a baker’s apprentice. However,
five years later, the Armistice found her down on her luck, homeless,
roaming the streets of Paris and sleeping in a vagabond’s hut behind the
Gare Montparnasse. Refusing to become a prostitute (she had an
irrational fear of venereal disease) she would go to the Coupole and sit
there all da, sipping a six-cent café-crème wearing a black silk hat,
her most prized possession. It was there, beneath the mirrors that
multiplied the possibilities of seeing and being seen, amid the
cigarette smoke and the aromas of Pernod and hot chocolate, that she
filched croissants, made scenes and got artists to buy her drinks. She
would pose for them in exchange, soon building up friendships with
lovely Foujita, dirty Soutine or drunken Modigliani. She didn’t belong
to any clique but rather reveled in seducing everyone: surrealists,
cubists, futurists, Dadaists; and rubbed elbows with drunken sailors,
pimps, boxers and cocaine users on the terraces of the Dôme or the
Rotonde. She was famous for her generosity with her tears, with her
body, with her laughter, with her money whenever she had any.</div>
<br /><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDxFQvdyuQLQ2hVWiuAy6c8OTEamFTh9QPWvIkyQzJ__AZA2J5tFBGZbH6VBZzrEiI_0fF1rybij6nYxQykfZnGeUyYzgOQ-Fx37olSdL5BST5FCAQIP2wbrKkRT43NLNUf9h1xMvEMUc/s1600/247898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDxFQvdyuQLQ2hVWiuAy6c8OTEamFTh9QPWvIkyQzJ__AZA2J5tFBGZbH6VBZzrEiI_0fF1rybij6nYxQykfZnGeUyYzgOQ-Fx37olSdL5BST5FCAQIP2wbrKkRT43NLNUf9h1xMvEMUc/s640/247898.jpg" width="504" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
In 1921 she met Man Ray and reluctantly accepted to pose for him, even
though she was weary of photography, especially the “lewd” kind. It was
love at first sight. They moved in together to a modern, luxurious
building on 31 bis rue Campagne Première. For Kiki de Montparnasse this
was a dream come true: perfumed with Guerlain’s L’Heure Bleue, she would
entertain in her salon the greatest personalities of her time. Matisse,
Picasso, Joyce and Gertrude Stein all dropped in to enjoy her excellent
French cooking. She still posed for artists, always remaining silent,
never judging their work. She picked up cues from the very people she
modeled for and became an accomplished artist, but was devoid of
artistic ambition. She could even have been a movie star when, in 1923,
Paramount scheduled an appointment for her in New York. But, at the last
minute, she decided to go shopping instead. She would rather stay in
Paris, a city that was, in the words of Alice B. Toklas, “more
beautiful, vital and inextinguishable than ever”; a city where her own
life and the creating of her persona would become her works of art.</div>
<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz2Fl87t_9tunjeUSV3sEIdks_BrLw4LE9qWi-0MtGXm3RyeJBzrz509DE2v0X6OZB0pycdZ7cBVNkxCX9tP4EazHubC4HlIt5gkCAK3Xhn_zdAqzuDxH2X8NjZHfcebiWF1b5qUnMyo8/s1600/Gwozdecki_Gustaw_KikiDeMontparnasse_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz2Fl87t_9tunjeUSV3sEIdks_BrLw4LE9qWi-0MtGXm3RyeJBzrz509DE2v0X6OZB0pycdZ7cBVNkxCX9tP4EazHubC4HlIt5gkCAK3Xhn_zdAqzuDxH2X8NjZHfcebiWF1b5qUnMyo8/s640/Gwozdecki_Gustaw_KikiDeMontparnasse_1920.jpg" width="516" /></a></div>
<br />Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-53939650708100074532012-11-26T08:10:00.000-08:002012-11-26T12:37:56.188-08:00Dalí: Cosmogonic Genius<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaIhyspn_PjHQuSInliyIra16irnDro5nckoqeSDUPuYxcOc2cS8He8E4FHJl0eQz-kc60_bR2WLasvXiSdaGdm9f2gTArU6D60km_MD7ijmSvQ_ve3kFbmJd4EF-KKgQhD1F0nyaVWJ8/s1600/245241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaIhyspn_PjHQuSInliyIra16irnDro5nckoqeSDUPuYxcOc2cS8He8E4FHJl0eQz-kc60_bR2WLasvXiSdaGdm9f2gTArU6D60km_MD7ijmSvQ_ve3kFbmJd4EF-KKgQhD1F0nyaVWJ8/s640/245241.jpg" width="502" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>I'm now writing for <a href="http://www.anothermag.com/">AnOther </a>... and I couldn't be happier about it, since it's one of my favourite magazines ever! So far I have published 2 articles in the past week (both about Spanish artists) and I can't help but sharing my latest one about Salvador Dalí. I know many people have trouble dealing with his work and his flamboyant personality, but I must confess I just adore him: he was deliriously creative, intelligent, articulate, hysterically funny, the king of overstatement... and he was hot when he was young. What more could one ask for in a man? In short: yes, he was a genius.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQbllJSKD9u8gLN1QplI-mMWZ3crek7N3dUC2yhADHKLqrC877FS6qmp_ETUgP2tpSnn5erlvBcHKpgARi7-KoLPkC1-IxX_4IlzeHsYM4Q2XEj9pZeTZI4CroXPVcMSPzt37PrdkjJE0/s1600/la+persistencia+de+la+memoria.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQbllJSKD9u8gLN1QplI-mMWZ3crek7N3dUC2yhADHKLqrC877FS6qmp_ETUgP2tpSnn5erlvBcHKpgARi7-KoLPkC1-IxX_4IlzeHsYM4Q2XEj9pZeTZI4CroXPVcMSPzt37PrdkjJE0/s640/la+persistencia+de+la+memoria.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
"Each morning when I awake, I experience again a supreme pleasure – that of being <b>Salvador Dalí</b>".
The man who once defined himself as a “cosmogonic genius” was second to
none when it came to controversy. Seen by most of his contemporaries as
an eccentric at best and a shameless buffoon at worst, he was judged by
an art industry that despised in him the very same things it praised in
Andy Warhol: megalomania, a taste for provoking and an audacity that
knew no bounds. Dalí was in fact a pioneer exploring performance art
ahead of his time, and his manipulation of the media has taken a whole
new meaning in this Internet-driven century: the timing couldn't be more
perfect for the <a href="http://www.centrepompidou.fr/cpv/ressource.action?param.id=FR_R-83f7964a2eb5338b98135668c18bfbf0&param.idSource=FR_E-83f7964a2eb5338b98135668c18bfbf0">retrospective</a>
that is currently held at the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris, which
places the Spanish artist yet again right in the eye of the storm.
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Salvador Dalí was anything but ordinary. From his childhood he had a
rare conscience of his own greatness: "at the age of six I wanted to be a
cook. At seven I wanted to be Napoleon. And my ambition has been
growing steadily ever since". His early years in the Catalan coast of
Empordà would arise in him an array of Iberian eccentricities that went
from food obsession to mystic outbursts and caught the interest of the
group of surrealist artists led by André Breton. However, the young Dalí
proved too outrageous even for them and was eventually expelled from
the group after presenting his scatological painting The Lugubrious
Game. From then on, stating "I am surrealism", he pushed the boundaries
of art to delirious extremes like a near-death experience inside a
diving suit during a performance. He never hid his appetite for fame and
fortune, going as far as to invent his own anagram nickname, "Avida
Dollars". From the 1940s he engaged in all kinds of creative projects:
designing dresses with Elsa Schiaparelli, imagining movie sets with the
also genial Alfred Hitchcock or even conceiving the logo of Chupa Chups
sweets, still finding time to appear in numerous TV shows and, of
course, to paint with a skill comparable to those of Velázquez or
Vermeer.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK-ir7owCbnjUSR2MPJQbCGjVNZUh0w_m8eKyoAq8AWnqiyjMO599z0xKbhGltRVPsw5zH3qyTBOI9pnUz30mpkJqreqgknUnFdSRJjRSyitZ51L8WuF8BtSs6bnmWYbHmZ_AkrF4RpDM/s1600/dali+y+gala.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK-ir7owCbnjUSR2MPJQbCGjVNZUh0w_m8eKyoAq8AWnqiyjMO599z0xKbhGltRVPsw5zH3qyTBOI9pnUz30mpkJqreqgknUnFdSRJjRSyitZ51L8WuF8BtSs6bnmWYbHmZ_AkrF4RpDM/s640/dali+y+gala.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The exhibition at the Pompidou Centre looks back on the painter’s
life through more than 200 works of art comprising The Great
Masturbator, The Persistence of Memory and other iconic paintings as
well as readymade objects like his 1936 Lobster Telephone, films,
jewellery or pieces of furniture mimicking Mae West’s features. Visitors
will enter the exhibit through a giant egg symbolizing birth, and will
exit through a brain, having experienced the hallucinogenic cosmos of
this modern Renaissance Man.<br />
<br />
<i><a href="http://www.centrepompidou.fr/cpv/ressource.action?param.id=FR_R-83f7964a2eb5338b98135668c18bfbf0&param.idSource=FR_E-83f7964a2eb5338b98135668c18bfbf0">Dalí</a> is at the Centre Pompidou until March 25, 2013</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBguJ-p9vGro_MTbXjrPYwnsoDdDr1yV7w4S7vFIj1fFyYNwZSI3KgnFskWjtPxgD-Jcs4jw6laWvONArvviH-Vu9K0Kl8Bnwoaa0sfVrxFzt6ZyMgm8E387ny6S7gqB8caLhUZCELdTM/s1600/la+miel+es+mas+dulce+que+la+sangre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="526" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBguJ-p9vGro_MTbXjrPYwnsoDdDr1yV7w4S7vFIj1fFyYNwZSI3KgnFskWjtPxgD-Jcs4jw6laWvONArvviH-Vu9K0Kl8Bnwoaa0sfVrxFzt6ZyMgm8E387ny6S7gqB8caLhUZCELdTM/s640/la+miel+es+mas+dulce+que+la+sangre.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-50004524843889349822012-11-05T08:37:00.002-08:002012-11-05T08:38:15.875-08:00This week: Kate talks, Anna Piaggi's last pictures and more...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBQXsddYi2BBr3KP5plfqjfKgVz6GoguchSKRiEp4fLT-JMyFAkS3tXGoIXVTmNGh9nUGHPp6Zb3YNnSX_-jPDB3tgXUk_I6WREIqJB5hyVEA7Bxug1tNazRdWvzWgLQLeACba0i7rk9o/s1600/fass-anna-piaggi-fashion-icon-02-v.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBQXsddYi2BBr3KP5plfqjfKgVz6GoguchSKRiEp4fLT-JMyFAkS3tXGoIXVTmNGh9nUGHPp6Zb3YNnSX_-jPDB3tgXUk_I6WREIqJB5hyVEA7Bxug1tNazRdWvzWgLQLeACba0i7rk9o/s640/fass-anna-piaggi-fashion-icon-02-v.jpg" width="462" /></a></div>
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<![endif]--><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Monday : Anna Piaggi’s last
photoshoot</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> Barely one month before she
passed away aged 81, Anna Piaggi, the original fashion icon, posed in front of
Tim Walker’s lens for W Magazine’s 40 anniversary issue. The
pictures are even more fabulous than you could expect and they have all the
wabi-sabi eccentric glamour anyone could wish for. I just love that in this
photo she is wearing that Jamaican-colored fur collar which I think was Dior
circa 2001, I remember the campaign was shot by Nick Knight and featured Gisele
and I was 16 and really stricken by it. I also remember she was wearing it when
I first met her backstage at a Maurizio Galante couture show years ago. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRP3CPGGkcRRTJKnOcCcUGxk-GUg5xkeTLDKBNvjfR3Lub3IiURq7oObrFc34WXjUOgY_YZ2CW_VMdzhi2VpLSBNQdEiUvspd7T3uGZtDWwGsVghN328X5tRme1X_EDOks1uAHLXMOM2M/s1600/catherine-baba.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRP3CPGGkcRRTJKnOcCcUGxk-GUg5xkeTLDKBNvjfR3Lub3IiURq7oObrFc34WXjUOgY_YZ2CW_VMdzhi2VpLSBNQdEiUvspd7T3uGZtDWwGsVghN328X5tRme1X_EDOks1uAHLXMOM2M/s640/catherine-baba.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<![endif]--><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Tuesday:
Catherine Baba creates a new jewellery collection for Gripoix</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">If you are a fan of Baba’s
Dietrich-esque, Von Sternberg-esque smoky, exotic, dreamy look, you’ll love
that she has just launched a second jewellery collection for French brand
Gripoix. This time you will find headpieces, bejewelled belts, rings that turn
into pocket mirrors and cuffs that turn into powder cases in shades of red,
gold and (obviously) absinthe green. You can’t get any more bohemian than that,
and I’m in luck! She stocks the collection at Nouvelle Affaire, a boutique just
around the corner from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">chez moi</i>.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5TBbLTObdPk-n4YViJW8X4P_h-fVOqgiJeVxSGLlSUcspkVGG4nLYwq8XRmiQAeisYXznF_i8zJ66iIS_C9Ke_QPd1sKrvXjtYnRMwcohwXsBiRHQ_AvjyUOirv3FBosASukeLAICAyM/s1600/9780847837908.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5TBbLTObdPk-n4YViJW8X4P_h-fVOqgiJeVxSGLlSUcspkVGG4nLYwq8XRmiQAeisYXznF_i8zJ66iIS_C9Ke_QPd1sKrvXjtYnRMwcohwXsBiRHQ_AvjyUOirv3FBosASukeLAICAyM/s640/9780847837908.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<![endif]--><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Wednesday:
Kate Moss bares it all</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Oh yes, at last. We have all
been waiting for it for decades! “Kate talks” is the new “Garbo talks”. Last
week she was all over the news when her confessions about her relationships to
men, drugs and food were published as part of a new, promising Rizzoli book
which will feature the most beautiful pictures of the model’s career as well as
her own writing. And because we never tire of listening Kate speak, <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/04/fashion/a-few-words-with-kate-moss-fashions-garbo.html?pagewanted=1&_r=0&adxnnlx=1352124117-D7kchcp3gXw2tcCnj79kzA">HERE</a> is an
interview the New York Times was able to get with her. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_g4CO-eJcANybInOGKg7tU7YIECc-rgR9qAtWsdR0FGqBAJuICkYEUUpoUmOpzvDaYEKptIvAeE4uRA-jlrOXMPi5DhBqK2cESVvWvQfxylXk5OrDCkl85_ldrZc6pAMehST4uhk7jVs/s1600/colourfast_testino_v_31oct12_b_1080x720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_g4CO-eJcANybInOGKg7tU7YIECc-rgR9qAtWsdR0FGqBAJuICkYEUUpoUmOpzvDaYEKptIvAeE4uRA-jlrOXMPi5DhBqK2cESVvWvQfxylXk5OrDCkl85_ldrZc6pAMehST4uhk7jVs/s640/colourfast_testino_v_31oct12_b_1080x720.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<![endif]--><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Thursday:
British Vogue is so high-tech</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After my Vogue
America-obsessed years (I think that’s mandatory for every teenager wanting to
get into the fashion industry and having watched <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Clueless</i> too many times) and my short-lived taste for Vogue Paris
(in my defence that was 8 years ago and Carine Roitfeld was still running it),
the only vogue I still religiously read and cherish is the British one. Because
I adore Alexandra Shulman and her views on fashion, because it supports rising
British talent while remaining Vogue and because, let’s admit it once and for
all, the British do it better. Part
of its avant-garde bet is a groundbreaking iPad version of the magazine available to everyone
with a subscription. </span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Friday:
See the Ruby Slippers up close</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">If you haven’t yet been to
the Hollywood Costume exhibit at V&A and have a chance to take a look, don’t
miss it! I was lucky enough to be invited to visit it before it actually opened
and I still can’t get over it. For someone as Hollywood-obsessed as I am, it
was a lifetime dream come true to be able to stand in front of Dorothy Gale’s
ruby slippers and to see Chaplin’s original Little Tramp costume up close. The
exhibition is about much more than just iconic costumes, it actually woke
really powerful emotions in everyone who was there, and I can guarantee
it will do the same for you! In fact it was so amazing I think it deserves
a whole post…</span></div>
Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-83796855133601865672012-11-04T02:45:00.002-08:002012-11-04T02:46:05.519-08:00Halloween Aftermath<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS1u8i9_nPqqF6eei_pP117QrVVWx-xwS16eKPFbGMVO6xnG9fhFi1jIQ7kJiikQnqJ0tMbfsFHxi_aw6eqk9uDJt39DZbA-FzjsZ0-FdP37IKTFl57sNG9xaXYrf1NQgH0aIZ1KUGkHA/s1600/la+foto(11).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS1u8i9_nPqqF6eei_pP117QrVVWx-xwS16eKPFbGMVO6xnG9fhFi1jIQ7kJiikQnqJ0tMbfsFHxi_aw6eqk9uDJt39DZbA-FzjsZ0-FdP37IKTFl57sNG9xaXYrf1NQgH0aIZ1KUGkHA/s640/la+foto(11).JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
On wednesday evening I decided to enjoy Halloween all the way... even my fingernails were celebrating! I had fun doing some nail art which I admit I copied from one of the patterns designed by the amazing <a href="http://www.ghettonailz.com/">GHETTO NAILZ </a>girls. Ghetto Nailz is, I think, the first nail art salon in Madrid, which means it's also the first one in Spain. The trend is still far from arriving to Paris (seriously what's up with this city lately?! When did it become yawnfest central and the most old-fashioned fashion capital?) so I had to experiment and do the nail art myself. Actually I'm really happy with the results, although you can clearly see I'm right-handed when you look at the nails I had to do with my left hand:</div>
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I mean those darned Dracula fangs? Couldn't bite a neck if their life depended on it. However, despite still having to practice a bit with my left hand, I'm really happy with my newly-found talent and I'm even willing to start manicuring my Parisian friends who are craving nail art and can't get it done in the city's salons (seriously get in touch!).</div>
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How was your Halloween? I wanna hear all about it! I confess I still haven't taken down my decorations and my flat is filled with pumpkins and cotton cobwebs... and I absolutely refuse to change my manicure!</div>
Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-37681416175703199992012-10-31T12:58:00.001-07:002012-10-31T12:58:15.788-07:00HAPPY HALLOWEEN!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://28.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lmcnxsdwac1qa1xnko1_500.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://28.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lmcnxsdwac1qa1xnko1_500.gif" width="640" /></a></div>
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And just in case you're still in need of costume and movie inspiration, check out my Halloween posts by clicking <a href="http://iloveartificial.blogspot.fr/2012/10/the-10-best-ever-halloween-movies.html">HERE</a> and <a href="http://iloveartificial.blogspot.fr/2010/10/trick-or-treat.html">HERE</a>. </div>
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What are your plans for tonight (and for the long Halloween/ Día de los Muertos/ Toussaint weekend?) I'd love to hear all about them!</div>
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Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-50909749981401905542012-10-30T09:08:00.001-07:002012-10-30T09:16:28.428-07:00Weekday Inspiration<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Having trouble getting
through the week? Hate getting up in the morning? Desperately seeking
motivation? I hear you. And that’s why I have put together a little agenda of 5
things that will make you smile and get you through these 5 working days. No
need to stand up in front of the mirror mumbling feel-good mantras when you
have a bad day. Just turn to this blog instead… Instant happy effect
guaranteed! </span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Monday: Varsity jackets on
girls galore</span></b></div>
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<![endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Lately I’ve been seeing
more and more girls spotting varsity jackets with the most fabulous boyish
glamour attitude. I first noticed them during London Fashion Week with the launch
of the J.W. Anderson for Topshop collection (which featured a really cool
varsity piece). The best thing about them is that they seem to fit with
everything, turning otherwise-too girly styles into edgy looks or having a bit
of a kick-ass quality when worn simply with jeans and Vans. How would you wear
yours?</span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Tuesday: fighting
republican chauvinism with creativity and girl power</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> <iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/51920265?badge=0" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/51920265"></a></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I discovered this video
thanks to the always fabulous Isabelle O’Carroll (visit her blog by clicking
<a href="http://www.isabelleoc.co.uk/">HERE</a>! Now!) and I’m hooked. An army of talented, smart, sensitive and beautiful
girls fronted by none other than Lesley Gore and including Tavi Gevinson, Karen
Elson, Carrie Brownstein and Zoe Kravitz tells it to Mourdock, Romney and co as
it is: you don’t own us.</span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Wednesday: Ab Fab auction wardrobe
for charity</span></b></div>
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<![endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">While Eddie Monsoon and
Patsy Stone might be the most selfish characters in the history of television, Jennifer
Saunders and Joanna Lumley are very different in real life. “I am giving up
some of my greatest treasures and happiest memories” said miss Lumley (with
that pronunciation that makes her absolutely irresistible)</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">"I am so thrilled to
think that the proceeds will all go to benefit young people through one of my
all-time favourite charities - The Prince's Trust. I love each item and each
garment with a passion." If you want to own something Lacroix, sweetie,
Lacroix, head to Kerry Taylor in London
on November 13.</span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Thursday: Hillier’s short
animated film</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The cutest jewellery in London is at Hillier. Who
could resist those bunny silhouettes jumping on rings, necklaces and
headpieces? And this video presenting the brand’s new collection is just as
adorable.</span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Friday: Swatch hires Fred
Butler</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">On Friday you’ll be
counting the minutes to the weekend (and singing Rebecca Black’s one and only
hit in your head. Don’t you deny it). Wouldn’t you like to be counting them in
this amazing watch? As all things Fred Butler, it’s all about colour and mysterious,
nature-inspired geometric shapes. Tick tock, what you waiting for?</span></div>
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Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-89542781690545564212012-10-23T16:06:00.000-07:002012-10-24T10:21:51.700-07:00Trick or Treat! The 10 best ever Halloween Movies<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Because Halloween wouldn't be Halloween without a touch of silver screen, because movies are as important to October 31 as candy, and just in case you're tired of watching <i>Saw</i> and <i>The Exorcist</i> over and over again and are in need of a little film inspiration, I have put together a list of some of my favourite Halloween titles. </div>
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Not all of the movies I have chosen are scary. I do like to be scared as much as anyone else (although if I have to sleep alone afterwards I might spend the night hidden under the duvet terrified that Jack the Ripper/ Norman Bates/ Linda Blair/ the Monster Under The Bed is coming to get me) but I think there's more to Halloween than just the scary part: it's about celebrating the obscure, the mysterious, the supernatural. It's about black magic and embracing our dark side. Each in its own way, all these movies convey that. So sit back, relax, and enjoy the wickedest celebration of the year!</div>
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<b>10. Bride of Frankenstein (1935)</b></div>
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Classic horror at its best! Monsters! Crazy scientists! Electricity machines! Boris Karloff! And of course the unforgettable Elsa Lanchester dressed as the terrifying bride of Frankenstein... But the reason I love this movie is because of the way James Whale directed it: it's simple, tender and compassionate without being sentimental, and it has flashes of humour and a couple of welcome touches of Hollywood kitsch (that gothic castle in the Scottish moors of Culver City, Ca?). In a way it set the standards for later horror movies, but it is also quite unique in the way it approaches the relationship between monsters and humans. A true must-see. </div>
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<b>9. The Omen (1976)</b></div>
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Okay, this movie is kind of average really. But it features a mature Gregory Peck, and that's good enough for me. The story is pretty standard as well: loving couple has a son who turns out to be an evil child and the Devil's messenger or something, and kills everything and everyone in gruesome ways. On its strong points, the ending is not as deceiving as it usually is in this kind of movies, and it's fun for a rainy afternoon in. Oh, and, you know. Gregory Peck. </div>
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<b>8. The Day The Earth Stood Still (1958)</b></div>
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Nothing beats a good alien movie with retro-designed flying saucers and that howling music they make. The thing that sets apart <i>The Day The Earth Stood Still </i>is the fact that aliens are the good ones in this film, coming to Earth to try and explain to humans that all violence must cease and that Cold War and The Bomb are bound to destroy the Universe. But... will humans listen to their message?</div>
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<b>7.Arsenic and Old Lace (1944)</b></div>
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For me, this is the number one Halloween comedy. A film in which two old witches bake cakes, kill lonely men and store all the corpses about their house; a film in which a scar-covered Raymond Massey psychologically tortures an Igor-looking Peter Lorre; a film about madness, death and poison... which turns out to be a rom com. Only Frank Capra (and Cary Grant at his best).<br />
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<b>6. Carrie (1976)</b><br />
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A bit of genuine fear is always good in Halloween, so what better than <i>Carrie</i>? This movie is unsettling (what's with all the nudity at the beginning?) and terrifying, especially if you're watching it for the first time. Me and eight of my girl cousins watched it together years ago and I can still remember the moment in which we all yelled in utter horror. I think we scared the neighbours, and just that made it worthwile. Also, Sissy Spacek's eyes when all that blood is running through her face... always gives me the willies.</div>
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<b>5. The Village of the Damned (1960)</b></div>
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A group of blond children (supposedly the kids of aliens although I secretly suspect they're just nazis) read into the minds of adults and control their actions, causing them to self-harm. This iconic movie is actually quite well built and it's got George Sanders in it for once not playing the villain. Also, who can resist evil aryan kids talking with a British accent?</div>
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<b>4. The Blob (1958)</b></div>
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Pure B-series drive-in material! Who could turn it down? For once, it's not about monsters, Frankensteins, aliens, Godzillas or creatures of the Black Lagoon attacking people; here it's all about a sort of giant jelly which looks like it might be cherry-flavored although I think it's actually the blood which gives it its distinctive red color. It eats teenage boys and their full-skirted, buxom girlfriends in their cars and in high-schools and in ice-cream parlors. Luckily there is Steve McQueen to save us all.<br />
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<b>3. King Kong (1933)</b><br />
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For those of you craving a monster classic, here's King Kong, the movie that has everything: the Empire State building, stop-motion dinosaurs, a screaming Fay Wray and a deliciously 1930's story. It never ceases to amaze me how it stays fresh, entertaining and surprising after almost a century. If you haven't watched it yet, you should definitely put it in your Halloween to-do list. </div>
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<b>2. Ed Wood (1994)</b></div>
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Before he married Helena Bonham-Carter and started making stupid films about monkeys and chocolate factories, Tim Burton was a great director. No, seriously, this is one of my all-time favourites and I guess it could be defined as a meta-Halloween movie: it's more than a Halloween movie, it's a movie about all Halloween movies. Johnny Depp is Ed Wood, a director so bad he was genius (you should also watch some of his work, it's a lark). He's friends with a decadent Bela Lugosi and has a girlfriend played by Sarah Jessica Parker (who's just as unbearable as good old Carrie B). Burton tells his story with understanding and tenderness towards Ed, his freak friends and their failures. Fabulous in every sense.<br />
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<b>1. Bram Stoker's Dracula (1992)</b><br />
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Meet Gary Oldman, aka the hottest Count Dracula that's ever been. I have always been a fan of the original 1931 version of <i>Dracula</i>, but you just gotta love Coppola's version as well (and hey, any movie starring Winona has to be cool, no?): all the symbolist inspiration and the winks to Cocteau and to the Bela Lugosi movies just make it great. The costumes, sets and special effects (no weird computer things which would have spoiled the whole mood) are all fantastic; Anthony Hopkins is extra as Van Helsing... all this combined with the fact that Keanu Reeves is at his most boring (are there really times when he's more boring than others?) and that Gary Oldman as Dracula is basically sex on legs, will make you want to turn into a vampire asap.</div>
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Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-37736234377099098182012-10-14T06:56:00.002-07:002012-10-23T16:06:44.430-07:00London Fashion Week Highlights<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Despite the fact that my life is an emotional turmoil right now, I can say I'm truly happy about one thing: I've reached a milestone in my career. Years of writing about British fashion and young talent for a French audience more often than not totally oblivious of any fashion made outside Continental Europe have paid off. My editors at <a href="http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/">L'Express</a> must like my style, because they decided to have me cover London Fashion Week for the magazine. I was beside myself with joy, pretty much had to refrain from kissing everyone in the room. The British Fashion Council did the rest with the most amazing display of <i>savoir faire</i>: upon arriving to St Pancras (an extra-fancy train station if we compare it to the dumpy Gare du Nord), I found a lovely driver waiting for me (thanks for everything, Jim!) who took me to the official LFW 5 star May Fair hotel. 5 days of shows, running everywhere, crazy work, crazy fun and no sleep ensued. </div>
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These are just some of the highlights of the week; it was difficult to choose because really everything was perfect (except for a couple of gossipy French people): Mary Katrantzou's chaotic show, meeting Fred Butler and talking about her work, sitting front row at Christopher Kane and Paul Smith... It was all tons of fun and I hope to do it again next time!</div>
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<b>Discovering Marques'Almeida</b></div>
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I had previously seen a couple of the pieces created by Portuguese designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida on I-D, but never a whole look. I was stunned at their show: I had never seen such distressed and such fabulous denim! I loved the dark green pieces with embroidered stars/ivy leaves. But what stroke me most was how well the collections translated to the street. There were several girls dressed in Marques'Almeida clothes at Somerset House and they all stood out, looking fantastic in a kind of grungey chic way.</div>
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<b>Bumping into Vanni everywhere</b></div>
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Italian whirlwind Vanni, one of my best and dearest friends, abandoned me in Paris a year ago to find his luck in London... and find it he did! Vanni called me on the first morning of LFW to tell me he could meet me whenever I was free. Instead, I bumped into his fabulous self in Somerset House between shows by chance. He introduced me to some of his friends, including jewellery designer <a href="http://www.mawi.co.uk/">Mawi</a> (guess where his necklaces and clutch in the picture come from), who was super sweet. During the next few days I saw a lot of him (although I have never enough of Vanni): we drank champagne together at Somerset House, he impressed me with his door bitch skills at the Jonathan Saunders show, we drank margaritas at a Mexican speakeasy/S&M dungeon in Soho and he told me all about his upcoming collection. Because on top of working for Mr Saunders and Miss Mawi and taking London by storm, Vanni is a talented designer preparing his first collection, so keep him on your radar everyone!</div>
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<b>Meeting Iggy Azalea at the Moschino Cheap & Chic show</b></div>
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Walking into the Moschino C&C show on saturday evening all the mainstream media were drooling over Alexa Chung. My eye, however, was caught by an elegant blonde in a long leopard dress. Although her looks and demeanour reminded me of Golden Age Hollywood stars, it turned out to be outrageous Aussie hip hop singer Iggy Azalea. I couldn't help myself. I walked past her and told her how much I loved her work. I didn't want to bother her, so I didn't expect it at all when instead of behaving all diva-ish, she started spontaneously talking to me about her trip to Europe and how the fashion industry made her feel. So not only the girl has mad talent, beauty and style, she is also super nice! Here she is, among others, talking about how to dress for the front row. </div>
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<b>Having lunch with Margaret Howell</b></div>
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I'm a lucky girl. On sunday I was privileged enough to be invited to a lunch with none other than British icon and designer Margaret Howell. It felt very much like an oasis in the middle of crazy day which at times seemed too fashion forward. Margaret and her team are zen and cultured and, as different as their respective styles are, they share with Paul Smith a philosophy about fashion that connects with traditional British know-how. For them, it's all about creating quality clothes in a respectful way, clothes that are timeless and so well cut that they make people wearing them feel confident. Here are two pictures from her show, which took place earlier that day. It goes without saying I would have worn every single piece of the collection. </div>
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<b>Seeing Tate Modern at night (and the Jonathan Saunders show)</b></div>
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From the moment I got the ticket I knew it was going to be quite something: a show at the Tate Modern! How cool could that be? But what I didn't expect was to see the entrance of the museum deserted and dark at 9 pm. That was really rare. And cool. It felt almost sacred, like a temple. The Jonathan Saunders show was also pretty impressive. I've always liked his work, but this season it felt really next level and mature... See for yourselves. </div>
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<b>Getting interviewed for Fashion TV Spain at the Crazy Horse x Marios Schwab event</b></div>
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For some reason upon entering the Crazy Horse party I caught the eye of the rad Fashion TV Spain reporters, which was cool as I was having a very patriotic day all dressed in <a href="http://www.bimbaylola.com/selector_idioma.php">Bimba & Lola</a>. So here I am rambling on about I don't know what and sounding like a total #FashionRetard... Although in all fairness I must say I'd been running around since 8 am and this was 10 pm, so I think the need for food and sleep might have made me sound a bit more empty headed than usual. The Crazy Horse party was actually thrown to present a new lingerie collection by Marios Schwab. The clothes were, as I supected, "chic and a bit risqué", and the girls modeled them admirably. There's no footage of the actual show but the clip below will give you an idea of what it was like (it was the same show, only with Marios's clothes). You gotta love le Crazy Horse!</div>
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<b>Sitting behind Suzy Menkes at Erdem and discovering something</b></div>
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I was placed directly behind Suzy Menkes at the Topshop venue waiting for Erdem's show to start when she took out her laptop and then I discovered Miss Menkes actually writes her reviews on the spot, while she waits for shows to start! I was so impressed, I mean, R-E-S-P-E-C-T, seriously. I know she has been working for decades, but I doubt that I'd ever be able to concentrate that much during the shows. The show was amazing (has there ever been a less-than-amazing Erdem collection?) and I was happy to see shoes that a human being could actually walk in (low heels and flats were actually a trend during LFW so yes, you can finally let go of all your 15 cm- torture instruments). </div>
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<b>My first Burberry show</b><br />
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I literally had to run to make it, but it was worth it. During the last few years and thanks to Christopher Bailey's incredibly high-tech savvy social media team, the Burberry show has become one of the most important events not only of London Fashion Week, but of Fashion Month. It was actually really exciting to be there and have the honor of seeing the collection first-hand and of being deafened by the music (I hear it's always <i>that</i> loud. It's quite cool anyway). Later discussing the collection with fashion critic Godfrey Deeney, we both agreed on how smart and well thought it was, and how many desirable pieces there were (I personally loved the feathered dresses and trench coats). Christopher Bailey is one of the most interesting and clever personalities in fashion business, that's for sure, and his collections never fail to impress.<br />
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<b>Thomas Tait's lush collection (and lush graffitis)</b></div>
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Tuesday morning. It was chilly outside and the first show was at 9 am after a 4 hour-night sleep. But all was forgotten as soon as I got to the skate park in which Thomas Tait's second ever show was to take place. It was all covered in multicolor graffitis. Coming from Paris, where the fashion industry is so grown up that street aesthetics would never be allowed on the runway, I was thrilled. I actually think that's when I decided I need way more London energy and vibes in my life and work. The show was fantastic and proved what everyone already suspected: that Mr Tait has mad talent and he's one to watch. Also, I would wear his organza bermudas and coats any day.</div>
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<b>Drinking champers at Nasir Mazhar... </b></div>
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... and yes, feeling a little like Eddie Monsoon. Nasir's show was a hip hop performance that had everyone raving and jumping around at the Topshop venue; that mixed with the champagne and again the lack of food and sleep did make me feel like Eddie. I was just lacking her wardrobe. But seriously, the show was pretty cool, and it had a plus: the nails were done by the amazing artists at WAH nails!</div>
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<b>My Bleach experience</b></div>
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After my very last show on tuesday, I headed to the <a href="http://bleachlondon.co.uk/">Bleach</a> hair salon on a whim (well, not really a whim, I had been wanting to do this for months) and asked for a green dip dye. It was a bit of a bold move, not so much because of the colour but mainly because I had a Eurostar to catch in about an hour and a half, which meant I had 80% chances of missing it #fashionUNconscious. But the ladies at Bleach are pretty much super heroes: they took me in and coloured my hair at a supersonic speed, making sure I didn't miss my train. They also gave me the exact shade of green I wanted. But what I loved the most about them was their enthusiasm and the fun they were having with their work! Which I guess it's kind of natural when you create such magical hairdos; it's a bit like creating unique works of art, no? I would have been all depressed in the Eurostar going back home if it wasn't for my amazing peacock-green do. All in all, I think losing my Bleach virginity has turned me into a Bleach addict... I'm already scheming on my next dye (pink and purple? Ombré blue?). Meanwhile, here's what I look like now.</div>
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<br />Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-31242444766758128052012-09-02T12:08:00.000-07:002012-09-07T06:29:30.723-07:00The Problem With Civilization<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I’ve just come back to Paris from a healing, therapeutic and mostly
fabulous Spanish holiday, and… I’m depressed. People generally talk about a “post-vacation”
depression (well, at least in Spain, I’m not sure they do in other countries with
a less Catholic, more Calvinist religious background), but I think in my case
it’s more of a “post-wilderness” depression. You see, after more than a month
spent mainly on a surfboard, on a bike, in a swimming pool or just on the grass
carelessly sleeping next to my dog or to the cows, Paris and its merciless glamour come as a
shock. And I’m supposed to come back to the city, dress all chic (the sole act
of wearing shoes after 5 weeks of living barefoot feels like Chinese torture,
so at this stage I can’t even handle the thought of heels or red lipstick),
stop doing things like using living animals’ backs for pillows and walking
around in a bikini, and act as if fashion was actually fun, when the truth is
after surfing it feels painfully bland and unimportant. I’ve noticed I adapt
very easily to the laid back life of the country, and on the other hand I am
extremely reluctant to the whole I’m-so-cosmopolitan-I-jet-between-the-coolest-cities-of-the-world
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The problem with civilization is that is seems
to be paramount for evolution and culture. It is thanks to an ultra-civilized
society that we enjoy things like table manners, libraries and push-up bras.
Some people even think humans need to get away from their own natures in order
to be superior beings. On the other hand, think about some of the headaches it
all has brought to us: paperwork. In-laws. The Metro. Not to mention the foul
bad mood those 3 things have the power to create in adults. In a nature state,
as long as you have coconut water and you know how to fish with a stick you’re
alright. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii9ZOVU46KpVCJLjHxVwwEt3WzsKYGwLNoH7P6rRVMCq3yVMcGPaObIbx7xPOHCIWLgZD9j8YcdHG64DQ89tL7RzIrUAmrCvWuSlCg6HlrtnpWjIzpEnzg-y0TJlxaGmtyKrEA6NF22j0/s1600/Tabu-Murnau.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii9ZOVU46KpVCJLjHxVwwEt3WzsKYGwLNoH7P6rRVMCq3yVMcGPaObIbx7xPOHCIWLgZD9j8YcdHG64DQ89tL7RzIrUAmrCvWuSlCg6HlrtnpWjIzpEnzg-y0TJlxaGmtyKrEA6NF22j0/s640/Tabu-Murnau.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The problem with civilization (especially if
you happen to live in Paris) is that it creates a hell load of artificial
problems. I.E.: “I don’t have a huge expensive car/ Balenciaga’s latest it bag/
an invitation to join the country club”. Is it seriously as important as all
that? The amazing thing about spending time in the country seeing animals,
taking care of plants and generally concentrating in nature lies in the fact
that all those ridiculous worries seem to vanish. I always feel rooted and at
peace in the wild; and I hate having to come back to those shallow obsessions
and insecurities. </span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiJ48GrXDumrtYBKm2wEwphV-3ynNSKyK2YR3kuqB49GZx0sQtXKfstq6LK03LzDsfNb9fOq1-2Xf6OaI_9GMnoQUDSQG5GJPSnJcr6OX4XyhyqjJe2tvP1et9MNWb7ADB_3lJH_TomaU/s1600/g2ewbftg8shvs8vf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiJ48GrXDumrtYBKm2wEwphV-3ynNSKyK2YR3kuqB49GZx0sQtXKfstq6LK03LzDsfNb9fOq1-2Xf6OaI_9GMnoQUDSQG5GJPSnJcr6OX4XyhyqjJe2tvP1et9MNWb7ADB_3lJH_TomaU/s640/g2ewbftg8shvs8vf.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The problem with civilization is that it’s all
about discomfort. Look at the fashion. OK, it’s fabulous, it’s creative, it’s
cool. Whatever. It’s still uncomfortable. Pencil skirts that make it difficult
to walk, high heels that make it difficult to even exist, hats that fly away
with the wind, elaborate hairdos that fall apart with the rain. Not that I don’t
love the looks of it, but it’s like a very sophisticated prison. Can’t someone
reinvent the magnolia leaf skirt-tiare flower necklace look?</span></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I know I seem all pessimistic by saying all
this, don’t take me too seriously. But do think about it. I was watching a
documentary about George Harrison the other day and he talked about how his
meditation journey in India made him happy, as it inspired him to be more spiritual,
and how angry and frustrated he felt by the fact that he could not get rid of
his earthly duties, business in London, the Beatles etc. I guess I feel
identified with all that (except for the part where 3 Beatles wait for me in
London). I am somehow smitten with the idea of Rousseau’s Noble Savage and I
admire Gauguin and Marlon Brando for having dared to say “to hell with you,
modern civilization” and escaping to a wilder life, where it all seems more
logical and more freeing and people have more possibilities to really develop.
So I guess I’ll try to keep all that in mind, even under the grey skies of
Paris. Because, you see, the problem with civilization is that it is not human
enough for humans. </span></div>
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Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-35783124883062881712012-07-09T00:18:00.000-07:002012-07-09T00:18:22.431-07:00The Demoiselles de Rochefort will save the day<div style="text-align: center;">
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<br />
Summer holidays are almost here and, as usual, I'm starting to get entirely obsessed with them. All I can think of lately is the sea, surfboards and summer fun. So I thought I'd energize this monday morning not with rock, but with a scene from one of my favourite French movies, <i>Les Demoiselles de Rochefort</i>. It's a rare gem featuring Catherine Deneuve, Françoise Dorléac, <i>West Side Story</i>'s George Chakiris and none other than Mister Gene Kelly and set in a little French fishing town. It has great songs, it's fun, uplifting, has cute costumes and a cheeky sense of humour. What else can you ask from a movie, right? So if you have never seen it, I suggest you make some lame excuse to sneak out of your office right now and get to watch is asap. It will brighten your day (and your week), guaranteed!</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/bbfhF4HG6Lc" width="560"></iframe></div>Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8847962231929273420.post-26649790761593426722012-07-06T10:55:00.000-07:002012-07-06T10:55:50.848-07:00Interviewing Ari Seth Cohen and his Advanced Style Ladies<div style="text-align: center;">
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A couple of weeks ago we celebrated in Paris the launch of Ari Seth Cohen's book Advanced Style with a cocktail party at Didier Ludot's boutique in Palais Royal sponsored by L'Express Styles. the lovely Mathilde Laurelli, who works for <a href="http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/">L'Express Styles</a> website, interviewed Ari about his revolutionary work, as well as one of his Advanced Style ladies, Joyce Carpati. Joyce has a rare and magical energy to her, during the whole party everyone was mesmerized by her. Not hard to see why! So for all those of you who couldn't come to the soirée, here's a sneak peek of it. Oh, and the leopard vixen holding the book is me. </div>Martahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09519957883128177763noreply@blogger.com2