Friday, 2 October 2009


A lot went on on the Parisian catwalks yesterday, many news and surprises. Probably one of the most awaited moments of the day was the Nina Ricci show. Its new art director, Peter Copping, seems to me both to seize the Ricci spirit and to be able to create sellable pieces. Thus could he finally be solving the problem that this brand has had for the last decade? In any case, he is starting his work for Ricci at just the perfect moment, when sheer, delicateness and femininity are key words to the fashion trend system.

Rick Owens surprised everyone by presenting a very light, almost cheerful collection. He defined it as "pretty". Having seen that his bussiness partner Gareth Pugh did the same the day before, should we expect an optimistic moment in fashion next summer? I look forward to it. His lamé dresses and stiff fabrics were not only "pretty": they created beautiful proportions and sihapes. Owens' spirit and concept were still there, but the evolution was good and a necessary one.

Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga was another one of yesterday's highlights. In this collection, he assumed a more urban style, refusing to indulge on cocktail dresses and red carpet dresses and doing a futuristic research on graphics as well as on fabric technology. The result is stunning, very modern and, above all, wearable.

Christophe Decarnin for Balmain seems to be the only designer keen to keep on following the same trend as last season. No wonder: Balmain's sales sky-rocketed in the last few months (despite prices being too absurd to believe). We still see pointy shoulderpads, glittery jackets and dresses and drainpipe trousers meant for pseudo avant-garde starlets. I just wonder wether Decarnin's moment will last that long.

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