Unlike today, the weather was nice yesterday. The shows too. It was a relaxed day with fun shows and press presentations. Obviously, everyone was expectantly waiting for Givenchy. It is amazing how the very talented Riccardo Tisci has become one of the biggest names in fashion in so little time. His collection made everyone happy: it was simply fabulous. Wearable, edgy, modern, faithful to the house codes. The shoes are no doubt going to be the biggest must of the summer for the fashion crowd, and the prints were some of the most beautiful I've seen. Bravo Riccardo!
I was pleased to see Dries Van Noten abandon the "urban" trend of his latest collections to come back to the elements that he handles so beautifully and make his brand so special. His prints made me regret my tendency to dress in such a monochrome style, his trousers were elegant and magnificently cut and... His accessories were amazing! Printed clutches, mozaic-framed sunglasses... But I will write a post on the best accessories of this week very soon, so then you'll be able to see them all!
If there is one designer who is 100% faithful to herself...that is Sonia Rykiel. The iconic french "créatrice" presented a very "her" collection. It had all the trademarks of the house, the candy and powdery yummy colours she likes so much, her typical 30's-meets 70's cuts and her models were in a party mood. Her shows are always a pleasure for the senses... I suppose that is her true French identity coming through.
Andrew GN is a little brand, and one of those that just make pretty clothes without really thinking there might be a philosphy behind them, but I feature it here simply because I liked the collection. There were smart, well-executed and suitable for a wide range of women. Lovely.
Karl Lagerfeld finally decided to join the general light and optimistic mood of the season (see Rick Owens and Gareth Pugh) and presented a feminine, shorts-galore (even in red leather!) collection. It was quite fun to look at it.
Last but not least...It was one of the most expected shows, for a number of reasons: there is a new art director, Estrella Archs, one of my compatriots who graduated from Central Saint Martins. Also, there was a new... style advisor of sorts with a famous, famous name: Lindsay Lohan (!). There was a big crowd in the Caroussel du Louvre. Everyone was excited...Then the show started. It was a glorious exhibition of bad taste and an old-fashioned, obvious re-visit of the 80's (with all its hideous elements: dubious colour clashes, disproportionate shoulder pads, trashy fabrics and all the rest), and all of it was crowned by the apparition of an irrecognisable, plastic surgery-looking LiLo. What for? On Archs' behalf I have to say she only had a month to design the whole collection. But the formula simply doesn't work.