New York is not the Fashion Week I most look forward to... It's so far away (all the other ones can be comfortably reached by train from Paris) and its style is generally so practical and urban. It lacks the exhuberance of Milan, the creativity of London and the magnificence of Paris. Luckily there is an increasing group of designers who truly make the week worthwhile.
One of the most expected collections is always Proenza Schouler. I've been a long-time follower of their exquisite textures, patterns and straight-lined concept of femininity. Their summer collection was mastermind and the last one keeps the standards up. Although I personally was not a fan of their high-waisted graffiti-printed jeans, I can predict they will be one of the best-sellers of the season. What I really liked were the skirts: they are perfect to achieve an edgy sense of glamour. Also, I loved the dark burgundy lipstick.
This is an important collection for Rag & Bone: it's the first womenswear collection the duo have designed by themselves, and the result is girly but not obvious, easy to wear but not boring, classical but young indeed. The show was a succession of girls perfectly dressed to go to school on a cold winter's day, fully equipped with scarves, warm layerings and bags that were the perfect size for an iPhone. They looked so comfy and pretty it made me extremely jealous!
I'm certain I was not the only one counting the days left until Rodarte's show. Kate and Laura Mulleavy's creativity and craftmanship are simply amazing. Surprisingly, the collection was much lighter and happier than the one in September, and the patchwork was not so visible, but the whole show had a dreamlike qualityemphasized by the last few white dresses, made of crochet, lace and broderie anglaise. All in all, the collection is perfect for a young and romantic yet daring lady...
...And the Nicholas Kirkwood shoes! You all know I simply adore Kirkwood's work (art déco-inspired, ultra-contemporary, vertiginous-but-comfortable-and-cloudlike light heels existed only in my wildest dreams before Kirkwood stepped in). These luminous, wax-like heels were the talk of the whole fashion crowd for days after the show.
The first time I went to London, years ago, I bought a Preen dress. I still have it, and it still feels heavenly every time I wear it. So now that the brand has teamed up with Savile Row experts to develop their tailoring, it has simply become sublime. The collection featured structured-but-feminine dresses, lovely and very English floral prints and beautifully tailored trousers and oversized jackets.
Looking at Oscar de la Renta I realized how much the world has changed in the last few decades. Our 2010 concept of glamour and elegance has very little to do with what used to be glamourous (you know, Elizabeth Taylor walking around the airport in fur and jewels, Estee Lauder in her Park Avenue home or Paloma Picasso strolling towards the Ibiza beach wearing an embroidered silk chiffon kaftan). De la Renta, though, still lives in that world, and I find that truly fascinating. He has a reason for it, as well: the ladies he dresses still live in that world. His collection was luxurious, chic, ladylike...flawless.
What can I say about Mulberry? It was nicely put together, original but not too edgy, chic and the style of the clothes matched perfectly the magnificent quality of their bags. The best pieces? lovely tailored yet feminine coats and short cocktail dresses.There have been some more exciting shows during this NY Fashion Week... I will post about them tomorrow!
