Tuesday, 14 June 2011

Anchors Ahoy

Every year around this time, when the sun shines and it's time for the beach, I undergo a little crisis during which I want to leave the city and my job in fashion for a small fishermen's village and a new life as a sailor. Images of Gene Kelly dancing in his uniform and of Spencer Tracy fishing in his Prada-like sweater float around my (trash-filled) head. Eventually I realize I would look quite Zoolanderish around real fishermen with my ruby-red lipstick and tilted little white sailor's hat, and so one more year goes on with me working in fashion. But there shall not be a crisis this summer!
When the other day I saw Yves Saint Laurent's 2012 cruise collection I was absolutely thrilled. Stefano has designed the ultimate summer wardrobe for me, full of classic nautical references, a daring yet subtle mix of masculine touches and feminine sophistication (following Monsieur Saint Laurent's trademark) and a dash of old Hollywood glamour. The collection is everything I could wish for and it has all the clues to achieve a chic sailing look.

A "soupçon" of androginy is essential to a sailing look, since a too feminine style is a bit ridiculous on a boat- after all you're going to be picking up ropes, catching fish and getting soaking wet with seafoam.

It might be a captain's cap (I love that because no one wears them anymore and they do make a statement) like Rita Hayworth's in The Lady From Shanghai.

Or it might be high-waisted flaring trousers and anchor motifs, just as Lauren Bacall liked them.
Carole Lombard liked a whole sailor's outfit. Daring, but why not?

And another fabulous styling trick from The Lady From Shanghai: very short, masculine coats worn over a bikini or a swimsuit. The effect is fantastic.

Stefano has not forgotten how important stripes are to a seaside outfit, presenting a particular version of the classic French marinière.
Few items of clothing are as eclectic and wearable as a marinière: a true must in chic seaside areas of France (Normandie and Bretagne), it looks also really cool in Paris (or any other sea-less city, for that matter).

Jean-Paul Gaultier or Petit Bateau, it can look really "sage" and prim,

or have a pin-up, racy twist to it. Also, it can be mixed with almost anything, which is fabulous.

A touch of grown-up feminine sophistication can be seriously mesmerizing on a beach party or a yacht soirée. High-waisted shorts and knotted shirts showing a glimpse of bronzed flesh are really sexy yet chic and comfortable.

Mix a silk foulard worn on the neck with a strapless bikini top for a dramatic effect (remember the foulard will fly in all directions. This, together with a femme fatale attitude, is irresistible).

An extravagant hat worn with a backless swimsuit, flaring trousers and round sunglasses packs all the elegance of Hollywood's golden age. combined with easy flat shoes like espadrilles, it's also extra comfortable... Are you ready to take over the seaside this summer? I know I am!

1 comment:

  1. Soy fanísima de la moda marinera o la ropa de inspiración marinera de toda la vida. (Por eso me empeñé en hacer la comunión con vestido de marinera). Este post está genial! :D


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