Friday, 9 September 2011

Myths and Facts About Paris

September is a big month for tourists in Paris. Actually, every month is big for tourists in Paris. Every day of the year, thousands of vacationers of all kinds (sneaker-backpack-combo wearing, suspicious multimillionaires travelling in matte Ferraris and of course normal people too) land in Paris with a formed idea of what this city is supposed to be. Everybody knows Paris is the city of light, the city of love, the city of fashion, the city of art... Once one is here, there are certain things that must be done and places that must be visited. It's mandatory. Period. And that doesn't just apply to tourists: many Parisians are actually foreigners who moved here motivated by the fact that Paris is the city of fashion, the city of love and so on and so on. The other day, as I gave instructions to an exhausted-looking bunch of Spanish tourists on how to go from the Galeries Lafayette to Notre Dame, I realized that, after having lived here for 4 solid years, I can give you my own version on some of the most extended myths about Paris. And I wish someone had told me all this when I first arrived here!

MYTH: Parisian women are the most stylish and sophisticated on the planet. No matter what. 2 years after we first met, my friend Vanni confessed to me when he first moved here he hoped every woman would be dressed like Marlene Dietrich in Desire. He was obviously deceived when he realized most girls are strictly Converse-jean-trenchcoat. No renard stoles, no feathered dresses, no extravagant hats. Of course there are some outstandingly stylish girls, but so are there in Stockholm, Moscow and Tokyo. It's not easy to be sophisticated in Paris: you get funny looks, men bother you on the street and you have to take off your heels, furs and bright red lips when you go to the Metro. Not practical.

FACT: Parisian girls are big on lingerie. The variety of brands, bra shapes, styles, colours and kinky accessories here is overwhelming. Your average girl will be wearing jeans and a marinière, but you can bet underneath she's wearing some hoochy coochy Chantal Thomass silk- lace lingerie. That's what I call empowerment from within.

MYTH: Parisian men are the most charming and irresistible on God's green earth. Of course there are lovely, handsome, sexy boys here, but I regret to inform that's not the norm. It's not like Alain Delon clones invade the city.

FACT: there is an exaggerated amount of perverts. When I lived behind the Moulin Rouge with my friend Anne-Claire, I used to have to ask taxi drivers to wait at the door until I was in the house. And I still managed to get bothered in the 2 metres that separated the car from the door. If anyone could tell me why this happens in Paris I would be thankful. Meanwhile, mace or a good watch dog seem like a good idea depending on what area of the city you find yourself in.

MYTH: there are bohemian little attics perfect for penniless artists all over town. Of course! If you don't mind sharing your bathroom and living in 8 square metres without a fridge and a kitchen. I don't even know why these kind of flats (called here chambres de bonne) are legal anymore. Let's face it, if you want a cute, artsy little studio you have to pay good money for it. Period.

FACT: this city has the highest ratio of amazing interiors on earth. Contrary to the Spanish, the French hardly ever draw the blinds, so if you're walking on the street at night you can see all the fabulous interiors. In my years here I have seen more sublime apartments than in my whole life. Parisians just have a great taste and enormously enjoy interior decoration.

MYTH: Montmartre is the bohemian epicentre of the city, so arty and alternative. The days of Picasso and fauviste artists are long gone. All you will see today if you go to La Butte will be hordes of crazed tourists getting their portraits done. Please, never ever set foot on Place du Tertre during daytime. Your romantic idea of Montmartre will collapse forever.

FACT: However, there are still some magical, unspoiled spots at Montmartre. Places still not discovered by mass tourism (so let's keep this strictly petit comité): in the lower part of the hill there are some great clothes shops and restaurants frequented only by the locals. If you really really want to experience 1900's Montmartre, I suggest a you go to the Lapin Agile at dusk: it was the first cabaret built in Paris and it still looks fantastic and holds a cool act of singers. No tourists go there and when you get out you can see the vineyards at midnight!

MYTH: The Moulin Rouge is the place to be. I'm sure the Moulin Rouge was a-may-zing in the times of La Goulue and Toulouse-Lautrec, but nowadays it's basically a very expensive clichéd attraction situated in an area filled with sex shops (the seedy kind, not the glamourous kind).

FACT: The Crazy Horse is the place to be. Situated near Avenue Montaigne, this cabaret holds a thoroughly modern and exciting burlesque act, sometimes featuring Dita Von Teese. Seriously worth it.

MYTH: What with all the parties, the nice food and the champagne, life in Paris is quite relaxed. I'll never get tired of repeating it: we don't spend our lives partying and drinking champagne! Well, maybe champagne flows more than elsewhere, but I can assure you we drink less champagne than Patsy Stone. I think.

FACT: Paris is taxi hell. I could write a whole book on taxi-related misfortunes. I'll never understand why it is so damned difficult to find a taxi here! I'm going to give you the best tip ever if you come to Paris: never expect to catch a taxi on the street. Keep the number of a taxi company on your phone so you can call at any time and get picked up wherever you are. Otherwise you might find yourself at 2 am stranded on the other side of the city for 3 or 4 hours and end up having to walk all the way home in your heels escaping from the perverts (remember your mace too- and I repeat: this is a fact).

MYTH: No trip to Paris is complete without a visit to the Eiffel Tower. I've been once on top of the Eiffel Tower. I can't remember any mind-blowing views or unforgettable love scenes- just a "breeze" that blew my skirt over my head, endless queues and a very annoying girl dressed in pink Juicy Couture yelling in the elevator that she thought the French were like so weird and stuff.

FACT: You should visit the Tour Montparnasse. Yeah, that ugly black tall building. It's taller than the Eiffel Tower, there are no queues and... you get to see all of Paris including the Eiffel Tower instead of all of Paris including the Tour Montparnasse.

MYTH: Parisians are obsessed with chocolate and cakes. No, we don't all behave like Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette and spend our days shovelling chantilly cream in.

FACT: Parisians have the most refined taste for all things good in life. It's not an obsession, just a long-established taste for gourmandises, which, in my opinion, equals a taste for happiness and life.

MYTH: Parisians are the most arrogant people in the world. Not true. They just have their own way of behaving towards strangers. Granted, a bit disconcerting (when I first came here I was astonished at how they could get super mad at you and still say mademoiselle, merci and bonne journée). But hey! You've read all the previous myths and facts: by now you can see how Parisians have to cope with a lot of stuff in their everyday lives.

FACT: Parisians make great friends. They don't become your BFF's in a day, you have to work a bit and scrape under the surface. But it's worth it! Once you've done that, you'll find Parisians are genuinely funny, lovely, caring people!

Tuesday, 6 September 2011

Nailing It

Over the last few years I've come to realize one of the first things people notice about me are my nails. I once overheard a make-up artist saying about me: "every time she comes into the studio her nails look so neat". And someone described me to a friend as "the girl with the really red nails". I confess to having a slight nail fetish (maybe a little more than slight). I've been lucky enough to work with one of Paris's top manicurists; he regularly collaborates with Vogue -among others- and he's got a whole suitcase filled with nail polish which he brings with him every time we are shooting in a studio. He obviously likes me, as not many people get so stupidly overexcited about new colours, products and shapes as I do.
Fetishes aside, I do think smooth hands and tidy nails are de rigueur, as your hands are very visible and say a lot about you, in a non-spoken language kind of way. And of course if your nails are really nice that's a plus. The thing is nail fashions change just like regular fashion, so one season it's all about square long nails and the next one is about short, rounded nails.


Right now there seems to be a revival of the 1930's nail, slightly pointed in an almond-like shape and, for adventurers, with a half-moon (which looks impossible to do but is actually not that hard, all you have to do is start painting the nail on the centre and go towards the sides then to create the half-moon). The look is very sophisticated and grown up, which is why Dita wears it. I actually really like it... although I must confess I'm ultimately and forever a fan of Barbra Streisand's nails!

Upon telling my friend Vanni some time ago that I loved Barbra's look but that many people think her nails are far too long and extravagant, he answered: "What do those people know? Tranny nails, baby, that's the stuff". Well, I guess now I know what I am at heart.
In any case, and while I let my nails grow praying to Saint Barbra (Mama can you hear me?) for them not to break, I'll tell you about my other nail fetish: red polish. One of YSL's fitting models once came to me in shock saying how someone had told her "are you wearing red nails? Don't you know how perfectly vulgar they are? Ladies never wear red nails, just tramps". Investigating a bit further on the subject, I came to know that there are indeed some (aesthetically) conservative people who think all a lady can wear is transparent polish, or light pink and beige at the most. I like pink and beige, but I also do like a little bit of bad taste (it's also de rigueur in any look- perfect good taste is yawn fest) and hey! a wee bit of trampiness is fun. Also, not two reds are alike, so I indulge in my love for red with about 30 different shades of red which invade my fridge (another tip, it's great to keep your polish in there, as it keeps liquid for longer). And yes, there is more nail polish than food in my fridge, that's something people who come to visit seem to notice too. Anyway, this winter it's all about red, and that means the nails too. So here are some of my all-time favourite reds. Which one would you go for?

YSL's Rouge Absolu

Chanel's Dragon is amazing, looks like Chinese lacquer on your nails.

Nars's Dovima


Nars's Jungle Red



OPI's Malaga Wine


YSL's Copyright Rouge, the ultimate classic red!
Nars's Matto Grosso


Chanel's Rouge Noir. The It polish.

MAC's Vintage Vamp
Nars's Saratoga



Illamasqua's Scarab

To go with these beautiful colours, here are some classic products which are guaranteed to make your hands look their best!


Chanel's nail polish remover is the smoothest one around. And instead of smelling like poison it has a soft, nice perfume.
L'Occitane has the best hand creams, especially the karité one. The texture of your hands will positively change after using it for a couple of days.

Dior's Crème d'Abricot is an iconic product; models are all big fans of this nail cream which strenghtens and beautifies your nails and cuticles. It's one of the best presents you can offer yourself!

Sunday, 4 September 2011

Call of the Jungle

Are your fall wardrobes ready? Mine neither. But at least I have already found the star piece for it: a beyond fabulous Carolina Herrera silk leopard-print trench coat. I do love leopard prints but I find it so hard to get hold of a beautiful one! Most of them are kind of trashy and vulgar, so if you're searching for a leopard dress, coat or bag, it's worth spending some time looking around for a really chic print. I happened to find the Carolina Herrera coat by chance (one of those miracle finds), but Yves Saint Laurent's permanent collection also features some satin leopard dresses, nylon raincoats and even leopard Muze bags and Tribute shoes (I know, I know, I work for YSL, but seriously, the permanent collection is so cute). Leopard print goes with almost everything! Plus I love a woman dressed in leopard: the print renders her wild, regal and empowered. Some people think it's a man repeller, but I don't agree; I just think it confuses men a bit, which is good. And the best of it? It never goes out of style. A couple of years ago, when I was in fashion school and Lanvin had just launched a collection of coloured leopard print dresses, I remember mentioning in class how I thought leopard was timeless. Immediately, about 20 students (and the teacher too) jumped at me saying it was a passing fashion just fuelled by Lanvin's collection. I wish I had had then these pictures to show them (sadly there were no iPads!). Leopard has been trendy ever since Antique Egyptians started wearing it, although I'm pretty sure prehistoric women already rocked the leopard bikini look:














One person leopard always reminds me of, and who wore it better than anybody, is Ms. Robinson. As cruel, blasé and evil as her character was, Anne Bancroft looked dashing in her leopard coat and underwear. The choice of the print wasn't casual either: it makes her look so self-assured and dangerous next to the (super cute) nervous wreck that was Dustin Hoffman.




So what do you think, is leopard print for you? Do you feel the call of the jungle?

Thursday, 1 September 2011

The F Word Part 2



Remember a couple of days ago when I was begging the industry to bring back fun to fashion? (read about it here) Well, thank God for Alber Elbaz, that's exactly what he has done with the new Lanvin campaign. A really smart (and hilarious) move that I hope will start a new trend among fashion houses. Personally I intend to learn the whole choreography and dance to it at David Lynch's Club Silencio during Fashion Week!