FashionWeekend

Well, actually, this is not much of a weekend. Fashion Week is work work and work (not even parties: after having ran all day long in heels a party is just an extension of daytime's work).
So yesterday was another day filled with shows. I would also say it was the most "intellectual" day of the week, with most designers reflecting upon the human condition in various ways. Viktor & Rolf followed their trademark style but were nevertheless surprising and very much in the "air du temps" with their collection inspired by...the credit crunch. There were endless tulle millefeuilles arranged in all senses and defying gravity, and ball gowns dissected in every possible way. The colour palette was gorgeous. It was a beautiful allegory of the abrupt end of a red-carpet event. The collection will be the star of every glossy magazine. Apart from that, the more discreet and less spectacular numbers (that appeared on the catwalk before the ball gowns) were lovely and well-executed, a reminder of Viktor & Rolf's hidden talent when it comes to designing wearable pieces.

I have been a fan of Sophia Kokosalaki since her very first collections. This wonderful Greek designer has explored many different territories lately, but yesterday's show saw her going back to her best feature: the calm, well-proportioned beauty inspired by ancient Greece. There were several tones of white, an interesting work in fabric (although that's no news: her work on draping has always been quite unique). It was well into the delicate, feminine-but-not-girly mood that dominates this summer's collections. Covetable.

Ann Demeulemeester has had a cult following for quite some time; but I had never seen her fans as excited as yesterday. It was a beautiful show, whith beautiful music and a beautiful mood. Demeulemeester says she always starts shaping her collections through emotions. The central theme to this one was "caged birds", and it captured perfectly the paradox of restrained freedom. Chains, wing prints and black leather were the central elements to a show in which there was much uncovered flesh, but that was never overly sexy.

Comme des Garçons was not only dark and different as it always is, but Rei Kawakubo amazed everyone by criticizing the consummerism fever that reigns in the fashion system... Through sense of humour. Beautiful patchwork was present in almost every look and shoulder pad shapes appeared in the weirdest places. Appearently it was an irony about the current shoulder pad fever. Knowing Kawakubo's relevance and influence in the industry, I can predict the end of this 80's-inspired shoulder-pad obsession very, very soon (luckily!)

I find Jean-Paul Gaultier an unsettling designer. At times he has had absolute genious moments and presented some of the most memorable collections of fashion history, to which he has contributed in many ways. He is still as great as ever, no doubt, but yesterday's show didn't do him justice. In a sort of urban style inspired by the bling bling of big American cities, at times Gaultier toyed a bit too much with the concept of bad taste, and the rest of the time he went back to some of his most iconic creations (corsets of exaggerated shapes and "marinière" t-shirts), but stayed at all times far from the subtlety and deep research that he usually shows. Coming from such a great designer, it was bleak.

Galliano's new muse

Long live Lauren Bacall.

Paris day 3

It was a big big day yesterday, whith some of the most important shows, the biggest front rows and the most glamourous guests. Christian Dior was no doubt the highlight of the day. I must say I was stunned and delighted at the amount of classic glamour and lack of bling bling in Galliano's latest collection. I really liked it. The continuing theme of lingerie and lace was cleverly mixed with parafernalia which came right out of a Raymond Chandler book: trench coats, croco bags, wavy hair... There will be a lot of lusciously desirable Dior pieces in the chicest stores worldwide next summer...

Lanvin was the other great show of the day. It was emotional, the guests cheered at the magnificently detailed garments and models were at their best. It started off with some classic Elbaz-style pieces, tailored and monochrome, to slowly evolve towards a fierce exhibition of embroideries, pleats and drapings whith a certain exotic yet ultrasophisticated feel. Outrageously elegant.

Isabel Marant is always one to have a great commercial success amongst "cool" young (and not so young) girls in capitals worldwide, and specially in Paris. Does this mean next season the rock chick that we have been seeing infinitely all around Paris will turn her back on rock and embrace that hideous concept (just writing it makes me shiver)... Boho chic? Marant and her team have been no doubt inspired by the growing popularity of starlets such as Sienna Miller and girls wanting to dress like her. Some of the pieces will sell like "petits pains", though: after all they are simple, practical and combine with everything.

Vivienne Westwood was as ecological as ever. Her models looked like Peter Pan's lost children, dressed in layerings of (very expensive) rags that are indeed suitable for living and camouflaging in the jungle and fighting for it not to disappear. It's going to be a tough battle, but Dame Viv believes in victory. Apart from liking the show, I was happy to see my friend from India, Smita, trotting down the catwalk. Smita you were great!

Front Row

As I think you must have guessed by now, I'm not the biggest fan of Hollywood stars and pop singers in fashion shows. There are, however, some people whose work, personality and sense of style I admire and who inspire me. It's the case of Anouck Lepère (above), who was yesterday at Balenciaga and who was one of my First Fashion Fascinations years ago. She's just glowing!

Vogue's Hamish Bowles was ever so chic at Nina Ricci.
Model Lily Cole at Balenciaga.
Photographers Mario Testino and Patrick Demarchelier.
I-D's Terry Jones. One of my idols whose work has enormously influenced me!

Yesterday...

A lot went on on the Parisian catwalks yesterday, many news and surprises. Probably one of the most awaited moments of the day was the Nina Ricci show. Its new art director, Peter Copping, seems to me both to seize the Ricci spirit and to be able to create sellable pieces. Thus could he finally be solving the problem that this brand has had for the last decade? In any case, he is starting his work for Ricci at just the perfect moment, when sheer, delicateness and femininity are key words to the fashion trend system.

Rick Owens surprised everyone by presenting a very light, almost cheerful collection. He defined it as "pretty". Having seen that his bussiness partner Gareth Pugh did the same the day before, should we expect an optimistic moment in fashion next summer? I look forward to it. His lamé dresses and stiff fabrics were not only "pretty": they created beautiful proportions and sihapes. Owens' spirit and concept were still there, but the evolution was good and a necessary one.

Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga was another one of yesterday's highlights. In this collection, he assumed a more urban style, refusing to indulge on cocktail dresses and red carpet dresses and doing a futuristic research on graphics as well as on fabric technology. The result is stunning, very modern and, above all, wearable.

Christophe Decarnin for Balmain seems to be the only designer keen to keep on following the same trend as last season. No wonder: Balmain's sales sky-rocketed in the last few months (despite prices being too absurd to believe). We still see pointy shoulderpads, glittery jackets and dresses and drainpipe trousers meant for pseudo avant-garde starlets. I just wonder wether Decarnin's moment will last that long.

Behind the scenes at Garteh Pugh

Here are some more images at the Gareth Pugh backstage... The boys and the girls were trying on the headpieces and the makeup.
Photos by Katie Shillingford at Dazed Digital.

Girl on the moon

Gareth Pugh's show was incredible yesterday. It was a true pleasure to be able to work with his team, and it felt more like London than Paris, even if the show took place in one of the most iconic Parisian buildings, the Palais de Tokyo. Almost everyone else was English, and the girls were dressed in the fun and extravagant London fashion (I felt like such a "jolie madame" in my little black dress and feathered belt). The great thing about working with the PR team is to know who all the front-rowers are. Rihanna was without a shade of a doubt the star of the show, even though she was just as vulgar as ever. In contrast, Daphne Guinness was atomic.
In this show, Pugh explored a more delicate and light side of his creativity, but his trademark concept was still there. What fascinates me of this designer is the fact that his alien/robot shapes, far from being a cliché, are always subtle and poetic. His woman seems to be a lone warrior wearing a hard-edged shell that slowly unfolds to reveal a vulnerable creature with an otherworldly beauty. On this occasion she was a "girl on the moon", showing all tones of grey (including the hair and makeup), a deep fabric research and a duality between shadow and lights. Gareth Pugh understands more than just fashion, beauty and aesthetics; he also understands the human nature.