Sunday, 28 February 2010

London Fashion Week top 10 shows

10. Richard Nicoll
Nice architectural constuctions that enhance the feminine silhouette... Especially the skirts.

9. Todd Lynn
Slender power shapes, lovely shades of beige and a Gareth Pugh-inspired sense of futurism.

8. Topshop Unique
It was an inspiring show full of poetry and very northern. Loads of sheepskin and wool that will keep you super warm during long winter nights out!

7. Roksanda Ilincic
I really really liked Roksanda's new take on classical ladylike fashion. It was sophisticated like a 30's film but with an edge.

6. Erdem
I always love Erdem's playful shapes and florals. This time, though, even more. A leather skirt with a flowery shirt is definitely the way to go next winter.

5. Basso & Brooke
They were the first ones to experiment with digital prints... Now every avant-garde designer is doing it, but they are still the best at it.

4. Christopher Kane
The enfant terrible of British fashion has gone for "gothic florals" this winter. It's a strange and disconcerting collection, yet inevitably adorable. Very Christopher Kane.

3. Mary Katrantzou
The new cult Greek designer is very intelligently exploring new creative pathways. I just love the way she has interpreted baroque inspiration.

2. Louise Goldin
Those futuristic and slightly space-era shapes, the fabrics, the colours, the details...Simply genius.

1. Paul Smith
At the end of the day, he still interprets British style, sense of humour and femininity like no-one. After all, didn't he invent it?

Which one is your favourite?

Thursday, 25 February 2010

Do me daily Christopher Bailey

So on tuesday I was invited to view the Burberry show at Quai Malaquais, here in Paris. The Burberry team very cleverly organized 3D live screenings of the show in several cities around the world (New York, Dubai, Tokyo, LA and Paris). So I went there with the 160grams team. I didn't expect though a cocktail party to be happening in the building when we got there at 4pm! Maybe the champagne made me even more excited about the collection, but in any case (as you already know) I absolutely adore Christopher Bailey's work.
Prior to the show, there were some live interviews, including one to Bailey; I was impressed to see how calm and zen he looked just five minutes before the show began. Normally, under those circumstances, designers are neurotic and hysterical wrecks, to say the least.
Then the show started and... in came the coats: magnificently-proportioned, uber-chic, for-all-occasions coats. Pure perfection. One thing Bailey said before the show was that he got his inspiration after finding an aviator jacket in the archives; then he thought it could be just as versatile as the trench coat. What do you like best, the trench, the woollen coats or the aviator jackets? I have always thought the trench is the ultimate representation of perfection when it comes to clothing (it's so practical and complete, it has such flair and...It goes literally with everything!) but with this collection I honestly cannot choose. If you have the same problem as me (and a little fatter bank account than me), you can just get them all before everyone else does, until tomorrow, on the Burberry website.

I very much think the coat above is my favourite piece of the entire collection. It would be just perfect with all of my clothes...

And the shoes! warm, comfortable and trendy for a cold Northern winter. Note to self: get those sheepskin ankle boots.

Tuesday, 23 February 2010

Sweet as candy

This summer is all about pastel. What do you think of it? Ok, it might not be the most groundbreaking trend in fashion history, but it's feminine and flattering, and if you combine the right shades the effect can be absolutely lovely and not at all mainstream. So, if you're looking for the pastel total look, you can't miss on this Illamasqua nail polish set. What I love about it is the fact that these tones match perfectly the Burberry Prorsum colours for this summer... A draped skirt, chunky wooden heels, a simple top and Illamasqua nail polish: that's exactly what I'll be wearing all spring long!

Sunday, 21 February 2010

Intern! Get me another Campari.

A few years ago I was a teen growing up in a Spanish provincial town. People my age didn't really like me since I behaved in a different manner and liked to do weird things like reading and watching old movies. I didn't really like them in return either... But the first time I saw "The Royal Tenenbaums" I realized there was nothing really wrong with me: I had the right to be different and it was OK to not be popular. And so I loved Wes Anderson.

Now (thank God) I've left my teenage years far behind and I don't in the least care about what people think of me, but I still adore Wes Anderson! The reasons?
1. He deeply analyzes his character's intellectual and emotional troubles but is never tragic or takes himself too seriously.
2. His films feature always the same team of actors, and there are some of my favourite among them (I just love Angelica Huston and Bill Murray)
3. There is such a comic sense of weirdness.
4. His films have the best soundtracks ever.
5. He takes impeccable care of all aesthetic details, of every kind (that includes fashion: don't you just love the way Margot Tenenbaum, played by Gwyneth Paltrow, wears an amazing Fendi mink coat on top of a Lacoste tennis dress?).
6. Without Mr. Anderson, none of the young "independent film directors" would exist nowadays.

Also, "The Darjeeling Limited" features one of my dream fashion objects: that magnificent Louis Vuitton case set especially designed for the film. Don't you just think the prints, the shapes and the numbers in it are the most perfect thing ever?
"Fantastic Mr. Fox" is premiering in Paris now. Finally. I'm not a big fan of cartoons really, but if they're Wes Anderson I bet they'll be different. Can't wait to see it!

Friday, 19 February 2010

Best of New York Fashion Week 2

Halston was the designer that defined American 70's fashion. Elegant, luxurious, with a Studio 54 edge, it was definitely the brand to be seen in. However, after the designer's death, it became one of those houses that lack a solid creative identity and a solid clientele, There has been a lot of talk about Sarah Jessica Parker taking part in the creative direction of the brand. The designer, however, is Marios Schwab, and he has reworked the brand's heritage into a contemporary collection. Some of the dresses are quite ladylike; looking closely at them, though, it's easy to identify some of the typical Halston details.

Remember the time when Marc Jacobs' clothes were cute, playful and feminine and celebrities like Victoria Beckham didn't come into the picture? Those were the golden days, and Marc's latest collection seems to bring us back then. His new "no celebrity policy", Sofia Coppola-lookalike models and simple but perfectly cut clothes are very refreshing.

Monique Lhuillier's show was a (very fast) succession of fitted minidresses in juicy colours and sensual textures. No brainy or obscure concepts behind the dresses that looked nice for a night out. It was just fashion for the sake of fun, and that's cool.

Donna Karan was celebrating the 25th anniversary of her company. That's 25 years of her contributing to define the essence of New York's urban spirit. Her clothes somehow remind me of Woody Allen's films, working girls and intellectually stimulating parties. Her latest collection was amazingly built with precious materials like structured organza and velvet. Cocooning dresses, jackets and coats were everywhere. It was a covetable collection for women of all ages. Happy anniversary Ms. Karan!

There was a sophisticated concept of sexyness at Alexander Wang. The fastly growing brand, which is earning more and more devoted fans, was inspired by power-dressing in Wall Street. But, of course, there had to be a twist. Wang's girls are not into sobriety. Luscious minidresses and transparent tops were mixed with masculine trousers and blazers. Except for some draped dresses, which are a trademark of his, the whole show was evidently evolving towards a new direction.

Those of you who have been reading this blog for a while now probably know how much I like Canadian designer Rad Hourani. Not only because he is a lovely, talented person I've been lucky enough to meet, but also because his creative concept is a very unique one: unisex, out-of-time clothes compose each one of his collections, which are very far from being boring though. This time, there was exclusively black and navy blue during the whole show: the trick is to play with proportions and textures, and this is something Rad knows very well. The pieces were flattering and very avant-garde. We can all get ready to hear a lot about Rad; all eyes in the industry are focused on him.

Thakoon indulged in several types of fur, sometimes patchworking them in savagely chic coats. Maybe not very easy to wear, but combined with the minimal, straight-cut layerings of the collection they looked just lovely.
All in all it was an OK Fashion Week... not unforgettable nor outrageous. But as I said in my previous post, NY Fashion Week rarely is. I am now really looking forward to London Fashion Week. My contacts in the city are telling me it's simply fabulous! So I'll keep you updated about it.
Have a lovely weekend!